About C-41 processing, the alternative way.

[/dev/null]

Here some examples. With the last two images I even used 'old' (2 weeks) Tetenal developer, was used already a few times. And I also had these problems when I developed at 38C in the Paterson tank by hand. Same issues as with the JOBO processed ones. So form some reasons I 'solved' it by developing at 30C by hand in the Paterson tank and no JOBO Processor.

Cut out from a 6x12 JOBO Processed at 38c



Full image 6x9 JOBO Processed at 38c (no problems here, compared to rest)



Cut out from a 6x12 JOBO Processed at 38c



Cut out from a 6x12 JOBO Processed at 38c



Full 6x12 and Paterson Processed by hand at 30C (no center point filter used on lens)



Full 6x12 and Paterson Processed by hand at 30C (no center point filter used on lens)


Full 6x12 and Paterson Processed by hand at 30C

[tnabbott]

I've starting using a stop bath (also based on PE's suggestion) and it has worked very well. I wonder if the results from the 30C development for longer time might be that the developer gets exhausted? Something akin to standing development?

BTW, nice pics!

[/dev/null]

Thanks

I just bought a Fuji Press Kit, it uses the Bleach and Fix in seperate baths, so I should add the stop bath then just *after* the first developer? I once used normal tapwater as a stopbath, but that didn't resolve this problem. Could I use a stopbath I use for b/w development for this?

btw, I found this document some time ago, that is the reason I gave the 'alternative' way a go.

http://paulagortazar.blogspot.nl/p/t...it-review.html

[chuck94022]

You say "JOBO processed" but you aren't specific. Does your JOBO have a lift? Are you introducing chems through the lift, or pouring in by hand and then loading on the rotation motor? If the latter, your marks on the 6x12 image look exactly like marks I got on my 4x5 sheet film developed in a JOBO tank with hand agitation. The problem in my case was due to pouring the chems in too fast, overflowing the funnel, and having fluid enter through the top edges of the funnel, rather than through the bottom. This causes developer to streak down the film from top to bottom, which is a disaster. If this is the case, you need to pour more slowly, so that the funnel doesn't overflow. It is much harder to overflow the Patterson tank, because the funnel is much bigger and the top edges are visible.

If this is not the case, I might suggest you add a 5 minute prewet (another PE suggestion I believe) which will help with the introduction of the developer. I do a prewet now with c-41 and no longer ever see any irregularity, when it dogged me before.

If none of the above are an issue, I would ask about your agitation speed - you might need to adjust your rotation speed, but that is way down on this list of troubleshooting steps for me.

The nature of your marks (especially the 6x12 in the JOBO) look a lot like a developer issue, not a bleach fix issue, as mine was, but I'm no expert.

Regarding the temps: I tried Tetenal C-41 at 86 degrees and got cross over. Didn't like it, went back to 100 degrees. Perfect color.

Good luck!

[/dev/null]

You say "JOBO processed" but you aren't specific. Does your JOBO have a lift? Are you introducing chems through the lift, or pouring in by hand and then loading on the rotation motor? If the latter, your marks on the 6x12 image look exactly like marks I got on my 4x5 sheet film developed in a JOBO tank with hand agitation. The problem in my case was due to pouring the chems in too fast, overflowing the funnel, and having fluid enter through the top edges of the funnel, rather than through the bottom. This causes developer to streak down the film from top to bottom, which is a disaster. If this is the case, you need to pour more slowly, so that the funnel doesn't overflow. It is much harder to overflow the Patterson tank, because the funnel is much bigger and the top edges are visible.

I do the pouring manually (no lift) and I think you found the root cause here of my problem. Indeed I pour the fluids in quite quickly, cause in the past I did it too slow and than certain parts were developed more than other parts. The marks on the images look like fluids running.

Thanks for this one! I will do a new batch the weekend and then pour more carefully

[chuck94022]

I do the pouring manually (no lift) and I think you found the root cause here of my problem. Indeed I pour the fluids in quite quickly, cause in the past I did it too slow and than certain parts were developed more than other parts. The marks on the images look like fluids running.

Thanks for this one! I will do a new batch the weekend and then pour more carefully

If you have sufficient dexterity, you can use an external funnel for pouring. Use one that is fairly large, extends out from the top of the Jobo, so that if you spill or overflow, it ends up outside the tank. But I will say between stripping off the Jobo lid, pouring, putting back on the lid, etc., it takes some practice to do it with - ahem - fluidity.

[Rudeofus]

Chuck, I don't think the issue comes from pouring, as a stop bath after the CD step prevents these funky patterns regardless of pouring style.

My impression is that as BLIX gets used its pH rises to the point where it doesn't stop development any more. If this is the case, fogging is likely to happen. A stop bath will prevent this for good, since first it stops development at once, and then subsequent washes before the BLIX/bleach will wash out most of the remaining color developer.

[chuck94022]

Chuck, I don't think the issue comes from pouring, as a stop bath after the CD step prevents these funky patterns regardless of pouring style.

My impression is that as BLIX gets used its pH rises to the point where it doesn't stop development any more. If this is the case, fogging is likely to happen. A stop bath will prevent this for good, since first it stops development at once, and then subsequent washes before the BLIX/bleach will wash out most of the remaining color developer.

Looking at his Jobo processed, hand filled 6x12 image, and seeing the pattern of image corruption, which looked exactly like mine, I have no doubt this is a pouring issue. I had it with fresh chems, exactly like his. This is why I asked him how he filled. It is an issue with the way the Jobo integrated funnel/light trap works. Pour too fast, you go over the top of the funnel,and the fluids rain down all over the film.

If you take a Jobo tank lid, unattached to a tank, and pour a bunch of water in it too fast while observing the flow underneath, you'll see this. Looks just like the flow out of a shower head, absolute disaster for any chance at smooth development.

This has nothing to do with old blix, I'd bet a dollar on it... We'll know soon enough as /dev/null (surely a fellow Unix comrade) reports back.

[Rudeofus]

Looking at his Jobo processed, hand filled 6x12 image, and seeing the pattern of image corruption, which looked exactly like mine, I have no doubt this is a pouring issue. I had it with fresh chems, exactly like his. This is why I asked him how he filled. It is an issue with the way the Jobo integrated funnel/light trap works. Pour too fast, you go over the top of the funnel,and the fluids rain down all over the film.

All I can write is that what he shows in image 3 is something I kept getting and which disappeared once I started using a stop bath. Interesting enough I never got this with E6, only with C41.

We'll know soon enough as /dev/null (surely a fellow Unix comrade) reports back.

If all our messages go to /dev/null, are they going to help anyone ?

[hgernhardt]

If all our messages go to /dev/null, are they going to help anyone ?

you -vv > /dev/null 2>&1 &