About C-41 processing, the alternative way.

[/dev/null]

Hi all,

I've been developing color negatives for over a year now. Mostly with my JOBO Processor and the Tetenal Kit on 38C/100F.

I was quite happy with the results, until I started with 6x12 format (120 rolls). I had strange streaks and stuff on 6x12. Even when I developed my 6x7 and 6x12 formats at the same time (JOBO extension tank in the JOBO Processor). Then I tried to develop in the Paterson tanks and reels, without the JOBO at 38C/100F. I had less streaks and stuff, but I still did not like what I was seeing.

So I started reading and I found out there was an alternative way of processing C-41 at 30C/86F. The development went up from 3.15" minutes in the JOBO tank at 38C to 8 minutes at 30C in my Paterson tank (just in the sink in water on 31C).

I can only say I got much better results! No streaks or strange color shifting. And I don't have to struggle with these damn JOBO reels. It is much easier to process the whole thing at 30C and 8 minutes first developer.

This is what I wanted to share

Bye.

[RPC]

You likely have some crossover, which is a certainty at lower temperatures, and don't realize it. Have you compared prints from these negatives with properly processed ones?

In my opinion you should have tried to solve the problems you were having at the normal temperature instead of changing time and temperature.

[keyofnight]

You likely have some crossover, which is a certainty at lower temperatures, and don't realize it. Have you compared prints from these negatives with properly processed ones?

In my opinion you should have tried to solve the problems you were having at the normal temperature instead of changing time and temperature.

Yeah…I'd like to see scans/prints of these negatives. I've seen widely varying information about crossover at lower temperatures, and it'd be nice to get some definitive info about this.

In other words…

[Rudeofus]

Tetenal is normally very conservative in their instructions and they specifically mention 30°C processing in their manual. Chances are that results will be not nearly as bad as some may suggest.

[Greg Davis]

And Rollei mentioned using theirs at 20 degrees C, but you can clearly see problems in the images I posted in the Digibase thread processed at that temperature.

[Rudeofus]

And Rollei mentioned using theirs at 20 degrees C, but you can clearly see problems in the images I posted in the Digibase thread processed at that temperature.

IMHO there is a profound difference between Tetenal and Rollei. Tetenal is a company which makes these chems and has a strong back ground in photo chemistry, whereas Rollei is only a shell company which rebadges products, sort of like Polaroid. From what I read, their C41 kit is a rebranded Fuji kit, and to my best knowledge Fuji never released a C41 kit for use at 20°C.

[/dev/null]

I can post some results of the 38C development images and the 30C images, will look a few up. The only thing I find hard to understand: I ONLY have these problems with 6x12 format and not with the 6x7 formats...Even when I developed the 6x7 and 6x12 reels at the same time in 1 JOBO tank in the processor. I will post the images I processed in the same reel.

[pentaxuser]

I am glad you have or appear to have solved your problem but I fear that using the lower temp may not have been the real solution to your problem. I see no reason why a Jobo reel and tank or 38C would affect 6x12 and not any other 120 film in other sizes such as 6x7

The chemistry does not know that you have changed the temp and the Jobo reel doesn't know that it has 6x7 in it so behaves properly but chooses not to do so with 6x12 in an unholy alliance with 38C. It is the same 120 film after all

There has to be another reason why this has worked

pentaxuser

[/dev/null]

True, that is why I cannot figure out why this only happens when I develop 6x12. Even when I have 6x7 and 6x12 in the same tank at the same time...!

I am just about to upload images, just give me a few minutes and you can see what I am talking about. Hope someone can figure out what is going on, appreciate the help.

[Rudeofus]

A number of folks have reported C41 problems with streaking and color spots, and I had these problems myself. They went away as soon as I started using a stop bath. Today I still process at 38°C but never without a stop bath. I use self mixed Agfa 304 as stop bath, which is a cheap acidic fixer that both stops development and takes some fixing load off my BLIX.

If that is too much fuss, any Acetic Acid or Sodium Metabisulfite based stop bad will do the job. PhotoEngineer recommends against Citric Acid, so be careful if you use commercial stop bathes.