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  1. #11
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    What did you use to measure mg?
    I can't answer for the OP, but the usual approach is to make a dilution. Dissolve 10g (or whatever you can measure quite accurately) into 500mL then top it up to 1L, that gives you 10mg/mL. Mix it well, dilute it another 10x to get 1mg/mL and then measure 1.4mL into your developer with a syringe or pipette.

  2. #12

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    Hi Stone,

    Firstly regards the ammonium....

    I can't source ammonium thiosulphate here in Australia so I had to go with sodium tthiosulphate instead. I have no direct experience with the difference but all my research tells me the the ammonium thiosulphate is far more effective as a fixing agent as it acts much faster that sodium thiosulphate.

    So in short, if you can get ammonium thiosulphate then definitely go with that.

    As to the mg measurement well my first batch I (luckily) guestimated it!

    Yesterday I asked stefan4u the exact same question. His answer is basically the same as what polyglot suggests, ie make a dilution and use that. I will certainly be using that method next time I mix.

    Stefan4u's answer below: (which is more or less a variation of what polyglot suggests)

    "Take one liter of aqua demin and add 1 gramm of Potassium Iodide. 1 ml of this soulution will be 0.001g or 1 mg (1.4mg will be then1.4 ml).
    Including all deviations in measurement this is the best / only way to do this at home...
    Than take a small syringe and you will be able to come very close to the afforded ammount."


    Regards,
    Peter

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by HumbleP View Post
    Hi Stone,

    Firstly regards the ammonium....

    I can't source ammonium thiosulphate here in Australia so I had to go with sodium tthiosulphate instead. I have no direct experience with the difference but all my research tells me the the ammonium thiosulphate is far more effective as a fixing agent as it acts much faster that sodium thiosulphate.

    So in short, if you can get ammonium thiosulphate then definitely go with that.

    As to the mg measurement well my first batch I (luckily) guestimated it!

    Yesterday I asked stefan4u the exact same question. His answer is basically the same as what polyglot suggests, ie make a dilution and use that. I will certainly be using that method next time I mix.

    Stefan4u's answer below: (which is more or less a variation of what polyglot suggests)

    "Take one liter of aqua demin and add 1 gramm of Potassium Iodide. 1 ml of this soulution will be 0.001g or 1 mg (1.4mg will be then1.4 ml).
    Including all deviations in measurement this is the best / only way to do this at home...
    Than take a small syringe and you will be able to come very close to the afforded ammount."


    Regards,
    Peter
    Thanks, that mostly answers what I asked about, however what I was referring to that I think you might have missed was that Thiosulfate and thiosulFITE are two different compounds, and in YOUR fixer formula you use sodium thiosulfIte but in the referenced formula they use ammonium thiosulfAte so I'm wondering if you're able to get sodium thiosulfAte if that exists, my father says that's the active compound and so it would make sense that the sulfate portion would work better than sulfite. Do you understand what I was asking now?

    Anyway this is great overall, and good thing I'm not in Australia so I can get the good stuff haha

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Thanks, that mostly answers what I asked about, however what I was referring to that I think you might have missed was that Thiosulfate and thiosulFITE are two different compounds, and in YOUR fixer formula you use sodium thiosulfIte but in the referenced formula they use ammonium thiosulfAte so I'm wondering if you're able to get sodium thiosulfAte if that exists, my father says that's the active compound and so it would make sense that the sulfate portion would work better than sulfite. Do you understand what I was asking now?

    Anyway this is great overall, and good thing I'm not in Australia so I can get the good stuff haha
    Oh, yes I missed that! haha.

    I just double checked: careless typo. I used sulphAte in my recipe!
    I will update my other link.

    Thanks,
    Peter

  5. #15
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    First of all, of course, congrats for your promising results, and thanks for sharing them with us.

    I would like to comment on a few things in your setup:
    • your Ferricyanide bleach seemed to have caused trouble, and the C41 process is not even rated for Ferricyanide bleach (but that's most likely not the cause of these spots). If you can, try to get Ammonium Ferric EDTA or even better, Ammonium Ferric PDTA to make a real C41 bleach. PhotoEngineer has posted a few recipes here on APUG. One big disadvantage of your Ferricyanide bleach is that the Ferricyanide will eventually (within weeks) kill the Thiocyanate and this will render your bleach green, and what's more important, ineffective.
    • C41 needs a very strong fixer and simply substituting Sodium Thiosulfate for Ammonium Thiosulfate will likely lead to retained Silver. If you really can't get Ammonium Thiosulfate from anywhere in Australia (which I think a bit hard to believe, given that you did get CD4, HAS and the other stuff), you should at least add Ammonium Chloride to your fixer recipe to boost it a bit. There's a formula posted by Ole here, you will have to adjust pH of this brew to reach the pH 6.5 needed by C41. I recommend you skip the Metaborate and use Sodium Metabisulfite to lower pH to 6.5.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  6. #16
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    C41 success....finally!!

    Quote Originally Posted by HumbleP View Post
    Oh, yes I missed that! haha.

    I just double checked: careless typo. I used sulphAte in my recipe!
    I will update my other link.

    Thanks,
    Peter
    Oh good!

    Also, you list all the other steps as ALSO being ok for E6 but I thought the bleach and fixer were somehow different for E6 or is my memory off?

    Have you worked on an E6 formula?

    This is great stuff keep it up!


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  7. #17
    RPC
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    The bleach formula is often listed without the thiocyanate, just 80-90 grams of ferricyanide and 20 or so grams of bromide per liter. I have used it without any apparent problems. A ferricyanide bleach should then be followed by a good wash and according to PE, a sulfite clearing bath.

  8. #18
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    Very nice results. Congratulations.

    The bleach is not supposed to have any sediment. Ferricyanide and Bromide mix quite happily (I think OTOMH that is what you used). Anyhow, that is probably the source of the problem. You should not have to filter any fresh mixed solution.

    PE

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    First of all, of course, congrats for your promising results, and thanks for sharing them with us.

    I would like to comment on a few things in your setup:
    • your Ferricyanide bleach seemed to have caused trouble, and the C41 process is not even rated for Ferricyanide bleach (but that's most likely not the cause of these spots). If you can, try to get Ammonium Ferric EDTA or even better, Ammonium Ferric PDTA to make a real C41 bleach. PhotoEngineer has posted a few recipes here on APUG. One big disadvantage of your Ferricyanide bleach is that the Ferricyanide will eventually (within weeks) kill the Thiocyanate and this will render your bleach green, and what's more important, ineffective.
    • C41 needs a very strong fixer and simply substituting Sodium Thiosulfate for Ammonium Thiosulfate will likely lead to retained Silver. If you really can't get Ammonium Thiosulfate from anywhere in Australia (which I think a bit hard to believe, given that you did get CD4, HAS and the other stuff), you should at least add Ammonium Chloride to your fixer recipe to boost it a bit. There's a formula posted by Ole here, you will have to adjust pH of this brew to reach the pH 6.5 needed by C41. I recommend you skip the Metaborate and use Sodium Metabisulfite to lower pH to 6.5.
    Thanks,
    That's good to know about the bleach.

    As for the other chemicals, firstly I already had most of them which I inherited from a friend who was wanting to get rid of them. I put in a lot of time trying to source the others. I already had CD4. I can confirm that CD4 is impossible to get here. No one in the States will mail it here. I even got my Chinese friend to email China to ask about CD4. No luck. (same for CD3) HAS I found a supply on Ebay in Estonia!! A few others came from UK and Sodium Thiosyanate came from Sth Korea!
    Actually I did find one supply of Ammonium Thiosulphate in Australia but the cost was $199 for 500grams! Seemed ridiculous.

    Can you elaborate on what you mean by "I recommend you skip the Metaborate and use Sodium Metabisulfite to lower pH to 6.5." Where did I use metaborate?

    Cheers,
    Peter

  10. #20
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HumbleP View Post
    Can you elaborate on what you mean by "I recommend you skip the Metaborate and use Sodium Metabisulfite to lower pH to 6.5." Where did I use metaborate?
    You didn't, but Ole's recipe lists it. My recommendation for a fixer would be start with Ole's quantities for Sodium Thiosulfate, Ammonium Chloride and Sodium Sulfite, then add Sodium Metabisulfite until you reach pH 6.5. Note that this is not the best fixer you can possibly mix for C41, but it may be one of the best fixers you can make easily without Ammonium Thiosulfate (yes, $200 for 500g is ridiculous). If you think there may be Silver Halide left after the fixing step, you could do two bath fixing for good measure.

    PS: Have you tried contacting Fototechnik Suvatlar? They stock the whole range of photo chemistry and may ship to Australia.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

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