C41 success....finally!!

[HumbleP]

Oh good!

Also, you list all the other steps as ALSO being ok for E6 but I thought the bleach and fixer were somehow different for E6 or is my memory off?

Have you worked on an E6 formula?

This is great stuff keep it up!


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Stone,
Oh, I understand there's some difference in chems for E6....that is a bit misleading.
I haven't done E6 yet. I still need to try to source some chemicals. (It's a pain in the butt trying to get certain chemicals down under)
It seems CD3 is impossible for us to get.

Also, to answer an earlier question of yours, I'm just using pH strips with 1 - 14 indication. So not too accurate but good enough for Jazz!

Are you mixing E6 from scratch? Any joy?
Peter

[HumbleP]

You didn't, but Ole's recipe lists it. My recommendation for a fixer would be start with Ole's quantities for Sodium Thiosulfate, Ammonium Chloride and Sodium Sulfite, then add Sodium Metabisulfite until you reach pH 6.5. Note that this is not the best fixer you can possibly mix for C41, but it may be one of the best fixers you can make easily without Ammonium Thiosulfate (yes, $200 for 500g is ridiculous). If you think there may be Silver Halide left after the fixing step, you could do two bath fixing for good measure.

PS: Have you tried contacting Fototechnik Suvatlar? They stock the whole range of photo chemistry and may ship to Australia.

Thank you, thank you....I will investigate!

[Photo Engineer]

You know, that price for Ammonium Thiosulfate looks like the price for the powder or crystalline form. The usual Ammonium Thiosulfate used in the photo industry is supplied as a solution in water and is about 10x - 100x lower in price, if available in Australia. You might want to check that out.

PE

[HumbleP]

You know, that price for Ammonium Thiosulfate looks like the price for the powder or crystalline form. The usual Ammonium Thiosulfate used in the photo industry is supplied as a solution in water and is about 10x - 100x lower in price, if available in Australia. You might want to check that out.

PE

Thanks, I'll double check. The supplier was a science/lab supplies specialist so now that you mention it that sounds right.

FYI, I strained my bleach and did another few rolls which seemed to get rid of most of the spotting. Still a bit dirty but much better.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4298411...7632664036290/

[HumbleP]

• your Ferricyanide bleach seemed to have caused trouble, and the C41 process is not even rated for Ferricyanide bleach (but that's most likely not the cause of these spots). If you can, try to get Ammonium Ferric EDTA or even better, Ammonium Ferric PDTA to make a real C41 bleach.

An initial search at local suppliers only lists Ferric Ammonia Citrate, brown or green as available. Am I right to assume this is NOT the same as what you're suggesting above?

[Photo Engineer]

OZ is chemically repressive!!!!!!



PE

[cepwin]

Wow! Well done! Especially being daring enough to roll your own chemicals...it's challenging enough using a kit. Tnx for the recipe as well.

[Rudeofus]

An initial search at local suppliers only lists Ferric Ammonia Citrate, brown or green as available. Am I right to assume this is NOT the same as what you're suggesting above?

Sorry but that's quite a different compound, you can use it for blue toning of b&w prints, though!

What you want for C41 is Ammonium Ferric EDTA or Ammonium Ferric PDTA. The latter one is the stronger bleach agent, but the first one will be much easier to obtain. Here is an Indian company selling Ammonium Ferric EDTA that claims they supply the Australian market.

[Rudeofus]

OZ is chemically repressive!!!!!!

Despite that Athiril and Steven Frizza are able to do outstanding home brew color work ...

[Photo Engineer]

Yes, Dan and Steve both have done impressive work, in a rather "hostile" environment. I would have to let them speak out as to how they did it.

PE