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  1. #41
    RPC
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    To me, color is not a lot more work than B&W. Color is easy enough that I would recommend people start with color processing then do B&W. Color is standardized, B&W has many more variables to learn and master. And as has been repeated many times on this forum color chemistry can last as long or longer than B&W if stored properly.

    It was noted earlier that Fuji paper gives crossover in Kodak RA-RT replenisher at room temp. I use Fuji CA II paper and results are almost identical to Endura. No crossover.

  2. #42

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    Does kodak still makes paper for darkroom prints or are we left with only fuji ?

  3. #43

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    has anyone tried the "KODAK PROFESSIONAL ENDURA Premier/Metallic", I would love to give them a try.
    Need to find myself a color enlarger, I am going to go broke wit all this ;-)

  4. #44

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    Kodak is still a major supplier of RA4 papers, but most of it is in rolls for pro lab use. I don't know if
    anyone cuts it for private label rebranding. Possibly. Ilford (Switzerland - not Harman) and Mitsubishi also make RA4 papers. Plenty of sources. I personally use Fuji.

  5. #45
    RPC
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    Kodak doesn't sell Endura cut-sheet paper for home darkroom use any more but you might be able to find some old stock somewhere. Kodak still makes it in rolls for lab use.

    I have seen the metallic paper, which has a silvery look to it, used at the lab where I work but never used it at home.

  6. #46
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    Most current papers are "optimised for digital" which means "not optimised for straight response or equal response in each channel; we expect you to calibrate it out in your printer profile". So there are not many papers available that will give a good straight optical print without having the odd hue shift or crossover; some of the Fuji papers are quite bad for this. Certainly you can buy some Endura Metallic and give it a bash, but it comes on big expensive rolls, has little dynamic range and might not give you accurate colour. Definitely try printing on plain RA4 paper first to get your process working reliably before using the super-expensive paper.

    I would suggest if you're interested in the metallic look to order an 8x10" metallic print from your local pro lab from a digital file and see if you like it. Maybe you could even get the lab to sell you some paper off their roll if they're feeling generous. The metallic has a very nice glow to it when lit diagonally - it looks like backlit transparency - and works best IMHO with highly saturated colours. It doesn't glow so much in the shadows and loses highlight detail easily, so aim for an image with narrow dynamic range and no delicate highlights.

  7. #47

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    The exposure generally looks OK, but you forgot to adjust for backlight and sidelight. The old rule of thumb (with manual cameras) was to open up about a stop for backlight and about half a stop for sidelight. Automatic exposure cameras handle these situations in a number of different ways, and you just have to figure out what your camera does and adjust accordingly. Portra 400 probably works best at box speed, although some people prefer to overexpose a bit. Just don't go too far. 320 is a perfectly acceptable speed for this film, and it gives you a bit less grain and a bit of room on the shadow side. Try bracketing and see what works best for you.

  8. #48
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    curious was this NEW Portra or one of the older Portra VC/NC versions?

  9. #49

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    That was the new portra 400. Went to the shop to get the dev. of two rolls of T max 400 and ended up getting some provia 400 lol ;-)

  10. #50
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    Portra 400 exposed at box speed

    Quote Originally Posted by LucRoMar View Post
    That was the new portra 400. Went to the shop to get the dev. of two rolls of T max 400 and ended up getting some provia 400 lol ;-)
    Oh well provia isn't bad :whistles: but you better get more accurate on that exposure


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

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