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  1. #11

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    Trying to read between the lines here but I take it that you will not be processing and printing your own or at least not attempting optical printing. If so then a good mini-lab will handle a hybrid process which is what it will have to be if you use slide film.

    Unless you have the time and enthusiasm to learn accurate metering with a spot meter then I'd bracket with slide film. I'd especially bracket if you see a great shot that may not be easily repeatable. A few "wasted" frames is a small price to pay to get the right exposure.

    pentaxuser

  2. #12

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    ColorPlus 200
    - Bill Lynch

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by wblynch View Post
    ColorPlus 200
    Oh? Better than Ektar 100? By whom?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Verizzo View Post
    Oh? Better than Ektar 100? By whom?
    It just may be that Bill (wblynch) is saying that even inexpensive colour film is capable of producing quality 12 x 16 enlargements from 35mm.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  5. #15

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    Matt is correct !
    - Bill Lynch

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    It just may be that Bill (wblynch) is saying that even inexpensive colour film is capable of producing quality 12 x 16 enlargements from 35mm.
    That's why I mentioned Superia 400 above. I've used the inexpensive Kodak films with really nice results too.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  7. #17

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    In B/W i get very nice results with ilford FP4+ 125 exposed at box speed and developed for an extra minute in ID11 1+1 (13 minutes), it gives me superb results and the grain cannot be seen at 12x16 unless you are very close to the paper. If you wanted to go one step further, using it stock virtually eliminates visible grain even at that size. When it comes to colour, i have blown up ektar 100 at that size with no visible grain what so ever and outstanding detail, but detail depends on the quality of your lens as well. I home process my C-41. Portra 160 might be another option but i cannot speak for that one at that size as i have never tried it. I print all of mine optically.

    and STAY AWAY from colour plus 200. It is utter crap! no offence, but i got horrible tonal results in nearly every way, unless it was indoors and casual, the moment i took landscapes or high dynamic range scenes in it, i got a very muddy result indeed! I found its latitude terrible if you need that. This was at 8x10, and three different rolls were used, one of which was lab-processed. And a sunset with it looked horrible. I get better results with ultramax 400 but i have never blown it up to 12x16. Ektar if you are going to be shooting landscapes, but it might make skin tones that bit red, in which case, use portra. Have never tried many fuji negative films apart from their consumer ones so cannot speak for those.

  8. #18
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    Any decent pro lab can produce stunning virtually grainless 16" X 12" prints from 35 MM Kodak Ektar 100, I've personally shot loads of Ektar 100 both 35 and 120, and have had 20" X 16" prints from 35 mm negatives that I don't believe the grain is so fine .
    Last edited by benjiboy; 03-09-2013 at 08:28 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Ben

  9. #19

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    I don't think that 12 x 16 is very large for 35mm, especially if you are talking about paper size and not image size. It might be a little large for 800 speed film, if you don't want grain to be a part of the look and the feel of the image, but 400 speed film can be fine for that size, especially a pro film like Portra 400. If it's really a problem for you, I think you would need to use a larger format to be satisfied, not a slower film. Using a tripod and overexposing a bit never hurts.

    -Tim

  10. #20
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    For optical printing, any of Ektar, Portra160 (Kodak) or Pro160S/160C (Fuji) will work very nicely and Ektar at least should give you a very smooth image at that size. If you're scanning or may consider projection, you must try Velvia (start with RVP50 even if only so you know you've been there, but the 100 is good too) and Provia.

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