Kodak RA4 RT/LU replenisher, starter ?
I know this subject has been addressed several times on apug, but I've read different opinions on the subject so I would like to be sure before operating in the darkroom.
I bouth a RA4 RT/LU 4x5L kit here (http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/kod...4x5l-295-p.asp).
By reading the description, this kit seems self-sufficient, but as it is called "replenisher", my question is, do I need to add starter to the mix ?
Another question, I would like to fraction the mix preparation in order to make only 500ml of mix at a time, and keep the remaining concentrates in their bottles, to improve conservation lenght. Does someone know the exact bottles capacity of A, B and C bottles, and also for blix bottles of the 4x5L kit ?
Thanks for your help !
You'll improve conservation by mixing it all up (all 5L) and then storing it in five 1L pop bottles. Fill them to the top and squeeze out all the air. I've had dev last over one year this way.
I have used this kit happily without the starter. I'm new to colour printing so can't make a comparison but the colours look great to me.
I prefer to use it one-shot in a drum and mix it proportionately, just enough for a daily work session.
Yes, it's used as a replenisher in appropriate systems, but also works superbly as the primary developer. I'm making the assumption that the RA/RT kit sold there is equivalent to the one here.
OK, found my notes (I'm at the office, not the dkrm). DEV: start w 300ml H2O, mix in sequence
25ml A, 12ml B, 25ml C, add water to make 500ml. BLIX: (sorry, this is in US fluid oz, but the volume
is about right to your needs - just convert with a calculator): start w 250ml H2O, add 63ml A, 93ml B,
add water to 16 US fl oz. Again, this is based on the US packaging. I don't know why the ratios would
be any different there, but obviously test.
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There are a number of inconsistencies in this thread, however, each to their own I suppose.
I have used the 4x5l Ektacolour RA4 replenisher for at least 20 years and always followed it to the letter - BUT - the way I have progressed I ALWAYS use the following dilutions. If you are using a NOVA Processor where the chemicals are stored for further use after each session -for 1 ltr working solution the correct mixes are as follows:-
25cc of 'A'
12cc of 'B'
25cc of 'C'
80cc of 'starter'
For 2 ltrs just double the quantities
For the replenisher use the same mix as for the prime solutions, but leave out the starter.
For those who use a rotary drum or dish you will need to use the starter for every fresh mix.
When mixing either the prime solution or the replenisher, ALWAYS add the different solutions to the water which should be warm, say around 25 30 degrees C otherwise they may not mix properly. The solution will initially go green but soon clear and go to a pale straw colour.
There is absolutely no need to mix all 20 ltrs at once, but for the replenisher it is best that the solution is stored in dark brown glass bottles. I use a mixture of empty wine bottles with a screw top and 500cc bottles bought from the Pharmacy. They really are very cheap. When breaking into a new bottle of replenisher I decant the contents into 100cc bottles as I find 100cc is enough for an evenings session.
Concentrate solution 'A' will go off in a part empty bottle and it will be of no use. Either squeeze the bottle to exclude all the air or, as I do add glass beads to bring the level up to the top of the bottle so there is no air to speak of.
100cc per 80sq inches of paper. it doesn't matter if you over replenish, but it does, if you under replenish. You will find the solutions don't last as long and you may start to get odd colour casts as the chemicals deteriorate.
The same replenishment rates apply for the Bleach fix and the stop bath.
I use a 12 x 16 Nova and currently, the original working solution was mixed at the end of June 2012 and is still working perfectly. I have just made a fresh 1 litre of replenisher which I am using and have found little or no difference when developing the prints with regard to colour balance.
by varying the methods of mixing/concentration you will never get consistency and you will be making it hard work for yourself.
If you don't use the 'starter' initially it will work, - because the paper contains a similar chemical and gradually the starter level builds up, but I doubt if it ever gets to the correct level to get the best out of the developer
Last edited by BMbikerider; 04-19-2013 at 01:49 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Well,you certainly don't need any separate "starter" for the RA/RT kits sold here, for drum use. That
turned out to be a big myth. But things might be out of synch in terms of specific product offering there.
One has to look at the specific packaging numbers. One-shot usage rates relative to these are available
on Kodak's web data base, though the search might take awhile. I have since switched over to the
Arista (Silver Pixel) RA/RT kit, which appears to be identical in every respect.
Some other RA4 kits, principally Tetenal over here in UK doesn't use a 'starter' as a separate solution. It is already included in the concentrates they provide. Perhaps the one you are using is the same. They (Kodak) would not tell you to use a starter if it wasn't necessary.
If the RA-4 replenisher is used at room temperature for 2 - 2 1/2 minutes it does well without starter. But if one uses it at the standard high temperatures, for the standard short developing times, then perhaps starter may be required to be added to replenisher for proper results. I don't know for sure, as I always use it at room temperature. Perhaps someone who knows for sure can comment.
A distinction must be made between regular developer and replenisher. The regular developer does not require any starter; the replenisher might when used to make working solution out of the replenisher that is to be used to develop in the standard manner. I would just do what the instructions say.
Originally Posted by BMbikerider