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  1. #11
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    I don't know, but I did plenty of Unicolor in my Jobo with continuous agitation and it worked fine.

  2. #12
    cooltouch's Avatar
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    Yes, but continuous agitation in a Jobo is just a gentle roll. Not shaking the hell out of it. Do you use the same continuous agitation in your Jobo for black and white?

  3. #13
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    Coolman,
    I've used that arista kit with great results.
    I used a Nikor stainless tank so agitation was a bit less aggressive than what I do with my plastic leakresistant Patterson rig. (although I am not agressive... i just use the 4-5 inversions per 30sec depending on contrast of the roll)

    I'm sure you could adjust your first bath agitation to suit the contrast of the roll if you are lucky enough to shoot the entire roll in similar lighting conditions.

  4. #14
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooltouch View Post
    Yes, but continuous agitation in a Jobo is just a gentle roll. Not shaking the hell out of it. Do you use the same continuous agitation in your Jobo for black and white?
    Yes. I used to use the slower speed for film as originally recommended (I have the older CPE2, not the CPE2+) until I saw some slight unevenness in skies and read that they later recommended only the faster speed for roll films. I now use that. I use the slower speed for sheet film. The later CPE2+ only has one speed, apparently somewhere in between but closer to the fast one.

  5. #15
    cooltouch's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback, guys. For a noob like me, every bit helps. So Bruce, to increase contrast, I take it you agitate a bit more aggressively? A couple of my rolls of E6 have been sitting around for a while now, and I don't recall specifically what's on them. So it's best I guess if I shoot for a middle of the road contrast level.

    Okay, so I take it that the directions for the Arista kit were worded unclearly. My take is that one should follow the directions as written for the initial agitations, but that for subsequent ones, to leave out the aggressive to-and-fro action for the balance of the developing time. This is what I originally thought they meant, but the wording is really unclear. At any rate, that's what I'm gonna do, and we'll see how it turns out.

    I hit a stumbling block in putting together my kit today. I went to one of this town's last two real camera shops, hoping to find a graduated cylinder and one-liter bottles for the Unicolor kit. The Arista kit I bought is the small, pint-sized kit, and they didn't have any pint sized bottles either. I did score a digital thermometer at Harbor Freight, tho, so things weren't a total loss. Frustrated by the bottle situation, though, I went to my local Kroger and figured I'd just buy some drinks in the bottle sizes I need. Heh. When's the last time you tried to buy a 16oz size juice drink or whatever in plastic bottles? They're all 16.9oz now (500ml). I finally found some chocolate milk (yum!) in 16oz bottles. Finding 1 liter bottles wasn't so hard. So now I have over a gallon's worth of drinks I have to consume before I can use the bottles. Once they're empty, I'll spray paint them black, and I'll be good to go. I figure I can have the chocomilk knocked off by tomorrow afternoon, no problemo, but the three liters of diet soda are gonna take a bit longer, so the C41's just gonna have to wait a while yet.

    As for a graduated cylinder, I'll just make do with what I have, and probably order a couple in different sizes from the internet. Really, the Arista probably won't even require it. But I'll be able to measure the Unicolor kit more accurately if I have a halfway decent one.

  6. #16
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooltouch View Post
    So now I have over a gallon's worth of drinks I have to consume before I can use the bottles. Once they're empty, I'll spray paint them black, and I'll be good to go.
    Don't spray paint your containers - just keep them in a darkish place. The inside of a closed cupboard or a Rubbermaid tote will do fine.

    In most cases, you don't even have to do that, as most of the chemistry isn't sensitive to normal light levels.

    Clear containers permit you to monitor the contents without opening them.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #17
    cooltouch's Avatar
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    Too late, I already sprayed them. About monitoring contents, yeah that occurred to me. SO I'm gonna take some thinner and wipe streaks down the sides of each bottle. That'll let me see the levels. I'm planning on storing them inside the styro cooler I use for the bath, so with the lid on, things will be nice and dark.

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