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  1. #1

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    Kodak Supra Endura Yellowed

    I have a box of Supra Endura F, and one E that were aledgedly kept frozen, but long expired. One worse than the other. Although I am able to manage the color filter pack and get the colors right, the paper shows it has yellowed. This can be easily noticed in highlights, whites and unexposed borders. What can I do ? I throw a bit more blue to counteract but it is still litle help.

    What else can I do ? any chemical process out there that could help .

    thx

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by lhalcong View Post
    ... the paper shows it has yellowed. This can be easily noticed in highlights, whites and unexposed borders.
    This might also be retained blix/bleach. What chemistry are you using to process the paper?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prof_Pixel View Post
    This might also be retained blix/bleach. What chemistry are you using to process the paper?
    uuhm ? never thought of this being a possibility. I didnt know this could happen. how to confirm and what to do if confirmed ?

    ---

    I am using Kodak Ektacolor RA-4 at Room Temperature. Mix only partial quantities to use. The chemicals are a few months past expiration date but this doesnt happen on Fuji fresh paper so I figured it was the expired Endura.

  4. #4

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    You can try to compensate the yellowing only within small limits…

    Try to reduce development time or temperature a bit, you propably have to expose the paper a pitch more.
    Still haven’t done that, but some benzoetriazole in the CD could be worth a try. I would start with about 100mg/Liter.
    If not handy, a small amount of sulphite(0.2g till0.5g) or NaCL in an similar amount could be used to reduce color coupling. But whatever you do, the contrast will suffer…
    Try with smaller fractions of your developer first, if restrained to much it will become useless other while…

    Regards Stefan

  5. #5

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    I've had luck with 20mg/L benzotriazole to eliminate base fog with Fuji Crystal Archive C paper, and I added 2ml/L hydrogen peroxide to bump the contrast up a bit. Results were excellent. But I had some Portra Endura where it didn't work so well. It's worth trying though.

  6. #6
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    To answer both posts 2 and 3 about the blix, it would help to know the brand.

    Now, try this.

    Prewet, Develop, Stop (1 - 2% Acetic Acid), Blix 2' 100F, wash for up to 4 minutes at 100 F.

    This is a trial process to eliminate blix problems. If it works, then you can go back to the regular wash times, but I use up to 10 minutes at 85 F after a 100 F rinse.

    All blixes are NOT created equal and can result in yellow red stain (rust) due to iron retention.

    PE

  7. #7
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    Where did you get the Paper?

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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    Where did you get the Paper?
    eBay.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    To answer both posts 2 and 3 about the blix, it would help to know the brand.

    Now, try this.

    Prewet, Develop, Stop (1 - 2% Acetic Acid), Blix 2' 100F, wash for up to 4 minutes at 100 F.

    This is a trial process to eliminate blix problems. If it works, then you can go back to the regular wash times, but I use up to 10 minutes at 85 F after a 100 F rinse.

    All blixes are NOT created equal and can result in yellow red stain (rust) due to iron retention.

    PE

    It is Kodak Ektacolor RA Bleach-Fix , I process everything at room temperature. Now I also wash at room temperature for about 5min only.

  10. #10
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lhalcong View Post
    eBay.
    Do you remember the seller?

    I have some in storage and some I ran awile back that showed a bit of yellow but I wrote it off to tungsten light that I had to shoot under.

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