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  1. #1

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    cant seem to expose Pro400h consistently

    Hi all. I have been shooting Pro400h recently as a change from portra 400. I have been using it with my Nikon F5. I have rated it at ISO200 and spotmeter off peoples faces (forehead or cheek) and place this in zone V-VII according to how bright it is -using the F5 spot function. Id say 10% of the time the exposures look perfect, 50% of the time they look like this:

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    these are straight scans from negs I developed. I am sure this is an exposure issue as I have had perfect exposures off the same roll. Here is one from the same roll:

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    I cant use matrix metering as I am not using auto focus lenses, plus I should really know better! Any comments on how I can meter more reliably would be great! Thanks Paul
    Speed Graphic, Pentax 67, Mamiya RZ67, Mamiya 645 1000s, Nikon F5, Nikon Fm2

  2. #2

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    I tend to meter for the shadows but then you still need to attend to skin tone exposure. I'm not sure why you're exposing the film for ISO 200?, 320 should be enough of a margin. Secondly, the Kodak Portra films are excellent so is there a reason for the switch to Fuji 400H?

    Tom

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kershaw View Post
    I tend to meter for the shadows but then you still need to attend to skin tone exposure. I'm not sure why you're exposing the film for ISO 200?, 320 should be enough of a margin. Secondly, the Kodak Portra films are excellent so is there a reason for the switch to Fuji 400H?

    Tom
    Hi Tom, for reading up around the web it seems to be safer to over expose, plus I prefer the washed-out colours like this. Can you explain to me how you meter for the shadows? Thanks Paul
    Speed Graphic, Pentax 67, Mamiya RZ67, Mamiya 645 1000s, Nikon F5, Nikon Fm2

  4. #4

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    Paul,

    I use mostly B&W negative film but have exposed plenty of colour negative film and find the C-41 process is more forgiving. Based on a vague approximation; trying finding the darkest area you want detail in and reduce the exposure given by two stops relative to the meter. e.g. meter gives f/8 1/125 aimed at shadow area, so you expose f/8 1/500...

    Tom

  5. #5
    Trask's Avatar
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    Seems to me that you're comparing apples to oranges a bit. The "good" photo was shot what appears to be late afternoon sunlight (hence the shadows), while the first two were shot in less contrasty light. They look rather flat because the light was rather flat, perhaps. I'm not sure your exposures are far off.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trask View Post
    Seems to me that you're comparing apples to oranges a bit. The "good" photo was shot what appears to be late afternoon sunlight (hence the shadows), while the first two were shot in less contrasty light. They look rather flat because the light was rather flat, perhaps. I'm not sure your exposures are far off.
    I agree, the first two were taken in cooler shadow. You can either fix the white balance in software or using filters on the lens.

  7. #7

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    I like to shoot such films at ASA 200 also, however I wonder if your spot meter on pale skin is still causing just a little underexposure? If you're scanning though, you can alter the hue very easily. Otherwise I don't think you have anything to worry about with these shots.

  8. #8
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    I shoot loads of 400 H, I rate it at the box speed of ISO 400 and use an incidental light meter reading, the exposures are perfect every time.
    Ben

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trask View Post
    Seems to me that you're comparing apples to oranges a bit. The "good" photo was shot what appears to be late afternoon sunlight (hence the shadows), while the first two were shot in less contrasty light. They look rather flat because the light was rather flat, perhaps. I'm not sure your exposures are far off.
    Hi Trask, these were all shot with 5 mins of each other. The light appeared consistent at the time....!?
    Speed Graphic, Pentax 67, Mamiya RZ67, Mamiya 645 1000s, Nikon F5, Nikon Fm2

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by benjiboy View Post
    I shoot loads of 400 H, I rate it at the box speed of ISO 400 and use an incidental light meter reading, the exposures are perfect every time.
    Hi Benjiboy, could you post some unedited examples please? I would love to see them to give me some reference. cheers Paul
    Speed Graphic, Pentax 67, Mamiya RZ67, Mamiya 645 1000s, Nikon F5, Nikon Fm2

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