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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    I HATE the new Yahoo mail compared to the old one, for example. It wasn't broke, but they fixed it anyway and poured ugly all over it. IMNSHO of course.
    Gmail is the way to go.
    CatLABS of JP
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  2. #32
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Christian View Post
    Stone:
    I've used the Unicolor kit, and the Rollei Digibase kit (in addition to the straight Kodak Flexicolor chems) and neither mandates any extra times for reuse. However, I've heard of people saying that their kits did in fact call for it, so like wblynch above I add 15 seconds or so after a few rolls if I think the chems might be getting tired and could use a little boost. No more than a few seconds, though, else you'd be effectively pushing the film.
    Thanks, and wish me luck I have one kit and 30 rolls to do...

    Also, you're right about yahoo polyglot, it's all in what you like, back in the day yahoo had a really bad spam filter and they didn't allow certain mail behaviors that upset me (even now in my phone my yahoo mail which I have like you because it's old and people still use it to send to me and flicker requires it) won't allow me to place spam mail into the spam folder from my phone, I have to log into yahoo on the computer to do that, which I never do. They make you pay to have the extra features, which is what turned me off from them and onto gmail, that and at the time gmail had a LOT more storage space and allowed larger file sending. I think the other mail systems have caught up now but that's what got me to switch.


    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  3. #33

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    universal keyboard shortcuts, endless storage, no limit on attachment sizes, floating window options, gchat (with video...), voice commands, light and fast loading interface, chrome OS... any other things i am forgetting is only because they are so naturally occurring i dont even know they are there. There is just nothing that even comes close the functionality and efficiency of this system. and because everything is integrated there is no need to go looking for other services (maps, search, flicker, picasa, blogger, youtube etc...)
    CatLABS of JP
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  4. #34

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    One roll of 120 and one roll of 35x36 are about the same in surface area. One 8x10 sheet is also right there.

    I do 120, 127, 126 Instamatic and some 35mm C-41 and it all averages out. I get 20-24 rolls from one liter of developer. Of course the 127, 126, and 35x24 all smaller so I count them as 1/2 roll for my time extensions.

    Not too precise I know. Maybe if I wet printed the color I would be sorry, but it works for me.
    - Bill Lynch

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by madgardener View Post
    So for those that want to try developing with a separate bleach and fixer that is highly advocated by PE, what are the choices available? I've been using the Unicolor kit, and while I seem to be having decent luck, I would like to see the difference a separate bleach and fix would make.
    I am still using the Flexicolor SM product. When needed, I have been able to find it online or locally on the store shelve (I know it's probably remaining stock). I use a stop bath between the developer and bleach steps, which has been essential to ensuring uniform and predictable results. I also do not use the bleach or fixer one-shot like I do with the developer. I have used the same 1-liter of bleach and fix for the past 7-8 months with no problem. I see this as the only way to manage resources given the state of things.

    A couple of samples are attached.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ocean Beach Car.jpg   Sammi Jo 2.jpg  
    Last edited by tnabbott; 07-11-2013 at 10:11 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #36
    bvy
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    Since the Rollei kit first disappeared, I've also resorted to the Flexicolor developer (LORR from uniquephoto). I'm using it one-shot for fresh and critical film, and a second time for expired film and cross-processing. I'm reusing the Rollei bleach as long as I can.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post
    Since the Rollei kit first disappeared, I've also resorted to the Flexicolor developer (LORR from uniquephoto). I'm using it one-shot for fresh and critical film, and a second time for expired film and cross-processing. I'm reusing the Rollei bleach as long as I can.
    I want to make my own now, but for ECN-2 and I have the dev chems but don't know if the bleach/fix is the same and if there's a stabilizer needed.

    I'm so lost.

    I'm an advanced newbie


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  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    I want to make my own now, but for ECN-2 and I have the dev chems but don't know if the bleach/fix is the same and if there's a stabilizer needed.

    I'm so lost.

    I'm an advanced newbie


    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm lost as well and I also consider myself an advanced newbie. I have read the post on what chemicals are available but that just adds to my confusion. If using separate bleach and fix is the way to go then I want that. For now while gaining experience with color development I am content with whatever kit is available.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by wblynch View Post
    One roll of 120 and one roll of 35x36 are about the same in surface area. One 8x10 sheet is also right there.

    I do 120, 127, 126 Instamatic and some 35mm C-41 and it all averages out. I get 20-24 rolls from one liter of developer. Of course the 127, 126, and 35x24 all smaller so I count them as 1/2 roll for my time extensions.

    Not too precise I know. Maybe if I wet printed the color I would be sorry, but it works for me.
    Not accounting for every single mm of the film, but it should be reasonably accurate for image area:

    8x10: 8*10*25.4^2 = 51612 mm^2
    4x5: 4*5*25.4^2 = 12903 mm^2
    220: 56*56*24 = 75264 mm^2
    120: 56*56*12 = 37632 mm^2
    135: 24*36*40 = 34560 mm^2

    8x10: 1.49
    4x5: 0.37
    220: 2.18
    120: 1.09
    135: 1.00

    I'm of the opinion that non exposed area doesn't really count, even if it's been coated, but the rough rule of thumb is that 135*1 = 120*1 = 4x5*4 = 8x10*1.

    Another thread on this: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/5...-35mm-4x5.html
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  10. #40

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    I thought this thread was about rollei? I liked the separate bleach and fix, but now its blix! Oh well, may as well go back to unicolor powder.
    Chris

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