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  1. #111

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    I searched and While PE is not a fan of blix here is something he wrote:

    "There is no connection between archival quality and the use of blix or bleach-fix. The argument is removal of silver from color films which affects grain, sharpness and color repronduction. In E6 films, it can also affect whites."

    "With a blix, there is a chance to have silver retention with some film / blix combinations. This is due to the heavy silver load, the type of silver developed, and certain inhibitors used in color films to control image quality. The dyes also act to protect the silver from the bleach and so the dye cloud must be rendered penetrable by the blix.

    There are ways to limit any problems with blix kits.

    Use a long blix time! Use 2x – 4x the suggested time or more. It will not hurt. It does make the process longer.

    Mix the two parts right before use and in the quantity you are going to use. Don’t re-use it. But, this increases cost."


    The link to the full thread titled "Just how bad is blix vs bleach & fixer?" is here.
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/6...ach-fixer.html


    Also of interest is the post "The definitive word (I hope) on color stabilzers! " by PE
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/1...tabilzers.html
    Last edited by brianmquinn; 08-01-2013 at 04:37 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #112

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    Quote Originally Posted by brianmquinn View Post
    I searched and While PE is not a fan of blix here is something he wrote:

    "There is no connection between archival quality and the use of blix or bleach-fix. The argument is removal of silver from color films which affects grain, sharpness and color repronduction. In E6 films, it can also affect whites."

    "With a blix, there is a chance to have silver retention with some film / blix combinations. This is due to the heavy silver load, the type of silver developed, and certain inhibitors used in color films to control image quality. The dyes also act to protect the silver from the bleach and so the dye cloud must be rendered penetrable by the blix.

    There are ways to limit any problems with blix kits.

    Use a long blix time! Use 2x – 4x the suggested time or more. It will not hurt. It does make the process longer.

    Mix the two parts right before use and in the quantity you are going to use. Don’t re-use it. But, this increases cost."


    The link to the full thread titled "Just how bad is blix vs bleach & fixer?" is here.
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/6...ach-fixer.html


    Also of interest is the post "The definitive word (I hope) on color stabilzers! " by PE
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/1...tabilzers.html
    I concede I was wrong about the archival bit but was correct about the colors being off bit.

    Either way I would prefer not to have to blix something for 2-3 times the amount if I don't have to.

    Either way its still not as good as a 6 bath and I'm not happy till a 6 bath exists for the US again.

    If you're happy with your 3 bath that's great, but I'm not.

    Thanks for doing the search, that was the thread I was thinking of.

    On a side note I'm glad you enjoy E-6 films, the more E-6 users the better.


    Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #113

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    Agreed 6 step is "better" (reasons are listed in the threads linked to) but as long as there are ANY quality E6 kits it is good.
    I hate it when there is a bad product out there that makes people think it is all garbage and give up on color home processing.
    Even a good product can get a bad reputation if it is used incorrectly and then people start to bash it on the web.

  4. #114

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    Quote Originally Posted by brianmquinn View Post
    Agreed 6 step is "better" (reasons are listed in the threads linked to) but as long as there are ANY quality E6 kits it is good.
    I hate it when there is a bad product out there that makes people think it is all garbage and give up on color home processing.
    Even a good product can get a bad reputation if it is used incorrectly and then people start to bash it on the web.
    Fair enough ill shush as yo not cause off-putting from E-6


    Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #115
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Good grief, what's the difference between extended time in one bath versus shorter times in two baths? In my case I'm using a Jobo and reading while the machine spins, with one eye on the timer anyway. While I don't want to take two hours or anything doubling blix time is a complete shrug.

    And as for colors etc. - again I compared a 6 and 3 bath kit from the same manufacturer and actually slightly preferred the 3 bath results. Not by any big margin as I doubt even the pickiest would have noted the difference unless looking closely for it side by side.

    And it doesn't actually cost more to use the blix and discard when it comes in a kit of the same quantity as the other solutions. It would if you bought it separately.

    I can understand preferring 6 when available but the fact they aren't readily available is really a non-issue.

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    Good grief, what's the difference between extended time in one bath versus shorter times in two baths?
    Saturation?
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  7. #117
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    Saturation?
    Well that's not really my point. My point was that it makes no sense to me to complain that doubling the blix time for a three bath processing scheme makes it too long when your preferred alternative is a six bath that will almost certainly take even longer than three baths including a double blix time.

  8. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcc View Post
    So sad... I still long for BW positives.
    http://www.dr5.com/blackandwhiteslid...eviewdev1.html



 

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