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  1. #21
    clayne's Avatar
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    Do you have the exact CAT number for the bleach?
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

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  2. #22
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    The CAT is 882 4690.

  3. #23
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    Looks like standard working solution small tank stuff. How much wash did you do between dev and bleach? I have a feeling there's nothing wrong with the bleach, but unfortunately I don't know of a good testing regimen for this type of bleach other than physical immersion of the negative in a tray and visually watching it while bleaching. However, I also could be wrong in that this particular bleach may not act the same way as a pot-ferri bleach at least with regards to visual inspection.

    PE would know more than I here.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  4. #24
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    One thing I did notice in the instructions is that each bath is mixed to a different quantity. Is there a remote chance that you mixed the developer to only one liter?
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    One thing I did notice in the instructions is that each bath is mixed to a different quantity. Is there a remote chance that you mixed the developer to only one liter?
    The processing manual (Z101, I believe) gives solution ratios. I do the math to mix up a 500mL batch, and I use it one-shot.

    Quote Originally Posted by clayne View Post
    Looks like standard working solution small tank stuff. How much wash did you do between dev and bleach? I have a feeling there's nothing wrong with the bleach, but unfortunately I don't know of a good testing regimen for this type of bleach other than physical immersion of the negative in a tray and visually watching it while bleaching. However, I also could be wrong in that this particular bleach may not act the same way as a pot-ferri bleach at least with regards to visual inspection.
    I fill, invert once, dump, fill, invert 5 times, dump. That should be enough, right?

    Yeah, I've just about run out of ideas, and I'm not sure I'm getting any closer to a solution.
    Last edited by keyofnight; 07-31-2013 at 08:14 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #26
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Is there anyone near to you that has their own, problem free bleach and fix that you could use to try re-bleaching your negs with.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #27
    RPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by keyofnight View Post
    if I switch to a ferricyanide bleach permanently, how would that change my process?
    When using a ferricyanide bleach, it is absolutely required to use a stop bath, preferrably a clearing stop bath, followed by a wash, between the developer and bleach or the bleach will oxidize the developer and you will get a brown stain on your negatives. It is not necessary with Flexicolor bleach. You should also follow a ferricyanide bleach with a good long wash to prevent sulfurization of the fixer by the bleach, forming a fog on the film. I have used a ferricyanide bleach and it works well but as you can see it adds more steps and time to the process.

    Looking at your film, I have doubts that the problem is under-bleaching. I have never seen film that is severely under-bleached, but I can't imagine the unexposed areas of the film being as dark as they are due to it, since little or no silver would form there. As someone else said, the problem lies elsewhere.

  8. #28
    clayne's Avatar
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    Edit: on second thought maybe it is actually something else.
    Last edited by clayne; 08-01-2013 at 02:42 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  9. #29
    clayne's Avatar
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    Actually I took a second look at the negatives and I might have to agree with the previous poster somewhat. There are definite areas of clearness and if the CLS were uniformly there you'd get the brick factor going on.

    When you get the pot-ferri run a few bleach tests on one of the strips. If you see no change then its definitely not a bleach issue.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by keyofnight View Post
    The processing manual (Z101, I believe) gives solution ratios. I do the math to mix up a 500mL batch, and I use it one-shot.
    I just looked at that publication and didn't see any mixing instructions. I did find mixing instructions for replenisher which is way stronger than regular tank solution .... which would quickly explain your overdeveloped and foggy negatives.

    Proper mixing instructions can be found here.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

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