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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Is there anyone near to you that has their own, problem free bleach and fix that you could use to try re-bleaching your negs with.
    Nope. I don't know anyone who can help. I did, however, just find the next best thing—the local photo lab said they would give me one of their test strips to run through my process. They'll run it through their densitometer and give me the control plots if I want. Pretty cool of them!

    Quote Originally Posted by RPC View Post
    Looking at your film, I have doubts that the problem is under-bleaching. I have never seen film that is severely under-bleached, but I can't imagine the unexposed areas of the film being as dark as they are due to it, since little or no silver would form there. As someone else said, the problem lies elsewhere.
    Definitely. At this point, I'm thinking it's the developer. What else can it be?

    I'm finding a few people report that they've seen a really dark film base from over development, high heat, or too much agitation here's one person and it's also in a guide from FSU—the latter is one of the best things I've read on the subject. I called Kodak, and one of their techs also suspected overdevelopment. I'm thinking I'll double check my developer mixture, go easier on the agitation, and make sure my thermometer is calibrated.

    I'll update when I learn more. Thanks, folks.
    Last edited by keyofnight; 08-01-2013 at 06:29 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    I just looked at that publication and didn't see any mixing instructions. I did find mixing instructions for replenisher which is way stronger than regular tank solution .... which would quickly explain your overdeveloped and foggy negatives.

    Proper mixing instructions can be found here.
    Hm! That would explain it, but I didn't see any mixing instructions in that document… it says to refer to the mixing instructions on the box. My box had no instructions. Hm. What can I do?
    Last edited by keyofnight; 08-01-2013 at 06:09 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by keyofnight View Post
    Hm! That would explain it, but I didn't see any mixing instructions in that document… it says to refer to the mixing instructions on the box. My box had no instructions. Hm. What can I do?
    The document I linked to states that the color developer bottles are meant to make 2l of developer soup. If the bottles contain some indication how much they contain individually, or if you can measure the content of these bottle somehow, then you should be able to mix less than the full amount at a time.
    Last edited by Rudeofus; 08-01-2013 at 08:39 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    The document I linked to states that the color developer bottles are meant to make 2l of developer soup. If the bottles contain some indication how much they contain individually, or if you can measure the content of these bottle somehow, then you should be able to mix less than the full amount at a time.
    Alright…I contacted Kodak about this, and they sent me the instructions on the label and said they would add it a new CIS document at some point in the future. I posted it the email and document in another old thread about C41 for reference.

    You were right: there is a _lot_ more of Part C in the replenisher mixture than in the tank solution mixture—now that I have both in front of me—and that would certainly cause the problems I've been seeing. Oy.

    Thanks to everyone who helped sort things out. I truly appreciate it.
    Last edited by keyofnight; 08-01-2013 at 10:27 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by keyofnight View Post
    Alright…I contacted Kodak about this, and they sent me the instructions on the label and said they would add it a new CIS document at some point in the future. I posted it the email and document in another old thread about C41 for reference.

    You were right: there is a _lot_ more of Part C in the replenisher mixture than in the tank solution mixture—now that I have both in front of me—and that would certainly cause the problems I've been seeing. Oy.

    Thanks to everyone who helped sort things out. I truly appreciate it.
    Thanks, but the linking process strips the attachment from the post you linked to.

    Can you just link to the thread itself, and advise here what your post number is?

    And attach the attachment here as well?
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  6. #36
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    Sure! Here's the thread—post #94. I've also attached the document. Cheers, folks!
    Attached Files

  7. #37
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    Glad to hear the chemicals are alright (albeit something missing from the mix) and the mystery seems to be solved?
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by keyofnight View Post
    Sure! Here's the thread—post #94. I've also attached the document. Cheers, folks!
    Watch out, these mixing instructions are for mixing 3 liters from the larger dev kit (which makes 8 times 3 liters), while the kit you use makes only 2 liters of working solution. Plan accordingly when you mix, or your developer will be too dilute this time.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    Watch out, these mixing instructions are for mixing 3 liters from the larger dev kit (which makes 8 times 3 liters), while the kit you use makes only 2 liters of working solution. Plan accordingly when you mix, or your developer will be too dilute this time.
    Right! I derive percentages from the amounts given in the instructions and use those to figure out how much of each component I need to make however much I need to make. I'll make sure to be extra careful this time, though…just so I know it'll turn out as well as possible.

  10. #40

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    Hi, I hesitate to post after everything going on so far, and I being late to the game. But I think you're just spinning your wheels with all of the elaborate troubleshooting attempts.

    This should be pretty simple to troubleshoot, and you don't need any control strips. Consider how the process works - where exposure occurred, the developer creates both a dye and a metallic silver image. The C41 bleach converts the silver image back to silver bromide, then the fixer dissolves all of the silver halide. All that should be left in the film is a dye image.

    I just looked at your film comparison photo in post #10. Your processing has a very heavy "base stain," that is, the places where film should be "clear" are pretty dark. So it's either a developer or fixer problem. Why is this so? Ok, the edges of the film and gaps between frames don't have any exposure. So there should be no development here. No development means that there is no metallic silver. No metallic silver means there is NOTHING for the bleach to do. So any troubleshooting of bleach is a waste of time.

    Here's what I would do, if I were in your darkroom. First, test the fixer. Do this by clipping off a piece of leader, then fix in the light to make sure it can "clear" the film. If it can, then you know the fixer is ok. Next, clip a piece of unexposed film (obviously in the dark) and develop by hand using the APPROXIMATE time and temperature. Rinse briefly in water, then fix. If this "clear" film is darker than the store-processed film, then it is due to the development step, and only the development step.

    More than likely, you somehow botched the developer. I say this because fixer is pretty hard to mess up. About the only other possibility is that you are somehow fogging the film during development.

    Your process is so far "out of whack" it's probably a waste of time to process that control strip.

    ps: none of what I've said will test your bleach; you won't know anything about its condition. But some of the other posts tell you how to check it, AFTER you get your main problem fixed. By the way, I once described how the Kodak control strips check for a bleach problem, in this thread: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/5...-mini-lab.html

    Good luck with the troubleshooting.

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