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  1. #1

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    Color E6 processing question

    Hi all, I just did my 2 runs of b/w film and they came out great, have been reading about color E6 processing, and where I am it's expensive at $17US a pop unmounted, b/c that is another $9US. I have been sending imported film back to Dywannes for development.

    I have read about the Arista Rapid kit - have to find a way to get them here b/c they only ship ground to the continental USA. Anyone else got them by chance?

    Ok - I know the temps are crucial. Is this just the first developer or both? Also when the first developer is complete and poured out how immediate does the rinse have to take place and then the 2nd color developer? The water would put a casual halt to it right? Also does anyone know how long the working solution would last for and what about the undiluted original stuff?


    Cheers.

  2. #2

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    You can buy Tetenal E6 kit if Arista ships only ground. They are pretty much the same. Maintaining 38°C (100°F) is of great importance, but
    I find agitation every 15 seconds to be much harder to maintain while keeping track of temperature of chemicals next in line. You got to keep
    temperature at 38°C for the 1st developer, colour developer and blix. Stabilizer can be used at room temperature.

  3. #3
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    1. Temperatures are supposedly critical, especially for first developer and color developer. BLIX is less critical (the hotter it is the faster it acts, but don't go much beyond 40°C or you risk ruining your film), and STAB will work at room temperature whatever that is at the moment.
    2. The rinse should be done quickly after pouring out developer or you risk getting uneven development. But that's not different from b&w processing. Wash well and with 38.0°C water before you pour in the color developer.
    3. The water would stop first developer, but you need to change it a few times at first to really stop first developer. In theory you could use a stop bath but you won't need it.
    4. The data sheet for your E6 kit will give you exact numbers, but as an example I can give you Tetenal's numbers, which specify about 2 weeks of working solution life. If you use protectve gas on opened and partially emptied containers, your concentrates will live for more than a year.


    You will notice that these color home processing kits are pretty easy to use and tolerant to slight processing errors.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  4. #4
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    Hi,
    I was checking out C-41 and E-6 processing also. See: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/1...mperature.html
    One thing I learned is that BLIX is bleach and fix in one.
    Many kits use blix, but as many people have pointed out to me, you're better using separate bleach/fix solutions.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
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    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  5. #5
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    Many kits use blix, but as many people have pointed out to me, you're better using separate bleach/fix solutions.
    Knowing that separate bleach&fix would be better won't help you much unless you can actually get such a kit. Please do not attempt to split BLIX into bleach and fix by mixing one bath from BX1 and the other one from BX2, it will not work this way. I have processed hundreds of rolls of film with BLIX kits and never had any visible issues as long as I followed the procedure given in the booklet.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  6. #6
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    Knowing that separate bleach&fix would be better won't help you much unless you can actually get such a kit. Please do not attempt to split BLIX into bleach and fix by mixing one bath from BX1 and the other one from BX2, it will not work this way. I have processed hundreds of rolls of film with BLIX kits and never had any visible issues as long as I followed the procedure given in the booklet.
    Easy available in Europe:

    Fuji Hunt Chrome 6X E6 Processing Kit, 5 litres: http://www.macodirect.de/fuji-hunt-c...es-p-2509.html

    TETENAL Colortec© E-6 3-BadKit, 1 or 5 Litres: http://www.macodirect.de/tetenal-col...er-p-1544.html
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  7. #7

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    I have been watching a APUG member provide youtube video. So a photoflo isn't required? Also, the 2nd color developer he went for 5mins instead is the 2nd chemical not fussy with the timing? And the blix doesn't matter if it goes longer ight? I would probably go for simpler rapid kits .... 1L should be ample I can always try it out with less important film first .... with my b/w I got all my 3 chems spot on b/c I was obsessed with it, cooling and stirring the other chemical when the tank was sitting between its every minute inversions, adding cold water or hot water to the bath.....

  8. #8
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    Color E6 processing question

    You basically need to keep the FD and CD at 38C. The rest can be whatever but its easiest to keep the blix alongside the other 2 in a water bath. It's just 6 mins a step and 2-3 mins wash (around 38C) in between. The 2-3 mins wash is just used to not cross contaminate the chemicals and steps but it provides plenty of time to get ready for the next chemical as the interstep wash is not time critical.

    I recommend the 1L Tetenal kit for starters. Don't worry about BLIX vs separate bleach fix right now.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  9. #9

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    Thanks for that link Tetanal kit Bit of a shame that it cost 2x than the Arista kit if that wasn't an oversight by myself. No where they could send me Arista?

  10. #10
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    Color E6 processing question

    My guess is it has something to do with an ORMD substance that cannot be shipped by air without a HAZMAT form. However the 5L tetenal kit is definitely the best value as it does 5 times the amount of the 1 liter kit but costs just a little under double the 1L. The 1L kit you make all at once. The 5L you decant the amounts needed for a 1L kit. You only need to find a place to keep the left over concentrates (mix up 1L equiv for batches) such that they don't pull in air. They'll last atleast a year this way (whereas the working baths are probably a month or so max).
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

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