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Thread: Color Printing?

  1. #71
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    From what I'm hearing it shouldn't, if the problem is that the stuff requires 5 second exposures or something. My exposures on old RA4 tended to run, best I recall, about 10-15 seconds, which doesn't leave much time for dodging and makes burning critical. I much prefer slightly longer exposures. I doubt 30 or 40 seconds is going to be a problem. Two minutes (old Cibachrome could run nearly that long!) might be different.

  2. #72
    labyrinth photo's Avatar
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    pentaxuser, we print optically with negatives and enlargers. we do have fantastic durst machines which allow us fine control, ND dials, reliabilty and options such as colour contolled pre-flashes and burn-ins.

    DpII is the thicker based paper, the cut sheet is really thin and flimsy and weren't impressed with the blacks at all.
    When we spoke to fuji rep about this a few years ago he was surprised that we were cutting off rolls and was even more surprised that all the pro labs in london were doing the same....check out michael dyer associates for an example of hand printing from 50" wide rolls for some highly respected art photographers. maybe this was something that fuji took note of!

    regarding exposure times we are generally above 5 seconds, much nearer 10-15 seconds, you may have to adapt your printing style a little but really whatever some people on this thread are moaning about is not something that keeps me awake at night
    Last edited by labyrinth photo; 10-15-2013 at 05:15 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Labyrinth Photographic Printing
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  3. #73

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    I've printed it as short as 8 sec and as long as perhaps a minute with no color balance issues. But I typically like to work somewhere in between just in case some dodging/burning is needed. Adding ND to a colorhead is pretty easy if you don't have that built in.

  4. #74

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    The problem with the blacks is partially due to matching the contrast range of the paper to the neg itself. Digital printers handle this by tweaking the curve either in the scanning or post-scan mode. I do it with unsharp masking for optical printing, though this seems to be needed
    only a small percent of the time for my negs. What we call CAII here has better blacks than Super C did. So I don't know if this "DPII" is ahead of the US market or behind it. One more thing to investigate. But if you want really rich blacks, the newer Fujiflex Supergloss has it. The prints
    rival Ciba in that respect.

  5. #75

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    Thank you labyrinth photo for your helpful reply. For what it is worth my exposures for what was Fuji MP paper which was what I used several years ago was very similar to what you quote for your current paper. Presumably MP paper wasn't optimized for digital laser printers.

    My experience with all RA4 paper has been short exposures and I can't recall needing anything over 10 secs.

    pentaxuser

  6. #76

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    I strongly suspect that products are being labeled differently in the US than Europe. The categories of CAII paper I am using are distinctly recommended for BOTH optical and digital printing on Fuji's US website (pro photog section). There are some newer offerings which make no
    mention of optical. But I do remember when a "DPII" was being offered as a thicker version of snapshot paper here, but was not the same thing
    at all as standard CAII large cut sheets or rolls, which never was so thin as to be flimsy like photofinishing paper. Even though my paper was
    made in the EU, it is labeled for Fujifilm USA. The Supergloss was made in Japan.

  7. #77
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    Thank you labyrinth photo for your helpful reply. For what it is worth my exposures for what was Fuji MP paper which was what I used several years ago was very similar to what you quote for your current paper. Presumably MP paper wasn't optimized for digital laser printers.

    My experience with all RA4 paper has been short exposures and I can't recall needing anything over 10 secs.

    pentaxuser
    I used to use a PH212 150W bulb in my D2 for printing black and white and a PH211 75W for printing color (with filters in the filter drawer) to slow it down a bit. Now I use an LED lamphouse for black and white that is just about squarely in the middle between the two in brightness.

  8. #78

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    Likewise Roger. I changed my 100W bulb in my Durst 605 to a 75W one because the exposures needed were less than the analyser's exposure dial at its lowest would go.

    pentaxuser

  9. #79
    labyrinth photo's Avatar
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    hi drew,
    here's the DPII spec; http://www.fujifilm.eu/eu/products/p...al-type-dp-ii/
    "For digital printers only" apparently, don't tell anybody
    Labyrinth Photographic Printing
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  10. #80

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    Thank you for that link. Yes, I can tell from both the back imprint and the spectral sensitivity curves themselves that this DPII is different from
    either the paper or polyester-based CAII products I am using. I would suspect that this largely amounts to a slightly different colorhead setting and will also have some effect on the actual dye reproduction, with the specific effect determined by the bandwidth of the individuals filters involved (or in the case of typical subtractive colorheads, their direct complement). At a cursory glance, it certainly looks workable under an enlarger - and you've already discovered that. It does look capable of crossover in older-style colorheads which tend to have excess white light spillover. The dye layers overlap more than in the papers I'm using. Both Durst and Omega improved in recent decades in that respect. I'd have to fiddle with my old Omega D colorhead to find out, but really won't waste the time, since all my chromogenic printing is done additive now, and it looks like that specific product has been pulled from the US market anyway, where it was only available in narrow
    rolls. A lot depends on the subject matter and specific film involved too. But this still leaves us with a mystery - if the official dual-use CAII
    product packaged in the UK (US Branded) available for sale there somewhere?

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