Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,880   Posts: 1,520,499   Online: 854
      
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22

Thread: E6 on Rotary

  1. #11
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Toronto-Ontario
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    4,616
    Images
    14
    Makes sense , I will set the temp up a degree or two as well. The new CPP3 is pretty good at keeping the temp up so I will need to play with this a bit.

    But as you say if you are consistent, and you see where I am going with it , just keeping things the same will work.

    How about Expert drums and quantity of chems.. also I plan to really push the development stage up to 4 stops so what about exhaustion issues of the developer? I am thinking of a two stage developer to compensate for the huge push.

    A 4 stop push is what was required on a Refemana to get the look I am after btw.


    Quote Originally Posted by wildbill View Post
    bob, the little graduates (which I use for rinses only) don't get up to 38 degrees if the machine is set for that. I imagine that the temp in the drum doesn't get to 38 either. As long as you always use the same temp, you'll get consistent results. I have guts from an old cpa that I mounted into a cooler that I use for heating things up as well since I don't have a thermostat controlled faucet.
    I mix my chems, put the 1 liter bottles into the machine, and fire it up for about 2 hours to get everything up to temp.

  2. #12
    wildbill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Grand Rapids
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,376
    Images
    140
    I get good results even with as little as 250ml per 10 sheets of 4x5 in my 3010 drum. I usually use 500ml to be safe though. Since pushes with e6 don't require really long increases (like many b+w films) you may get away with standard amounts. After all, the time it takes to dump/refill the drum is how many seconds?_
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  3. #13
    Roger Cole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Suburbs of Atlanta, GA USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,764
    My CPE2 lacks the digital setting of the CPP. I put my thermometer in the chemical bottle filled with water closest to the control (which will be the developer for B&W/C41 and first developer for E6, which are most critical in each case) and tweaked the setting until I found the real point to set it for 75F (black and white) and 100F (color) and carefully marked the dial with a fine marker so it's repeatable. The dial calibration is far enough off that it's really only useful as a starting point but once you dial this in, you're good.

  4. #14
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Toronto-Ontario
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    4,616
    Images
    14
    I have always been a bit of a freek with the amount of chems.. I always use 1000ml no matter what process.
    It takes me about 20 seconds to dump and refill. Thats all I have been doing for the last 7 days so it does take that long for me.


    Quote Originally Posted by wildbill View Post
    I get good results even with as little as 250ml per 10 sheets of 4x5 in my 3010 drum. I usually use 500ml to be safe though. Since pushes with e6 don't require really long increases (like many b+w films) you may get away with standard amounts. After all, the time it takes to dump/refill the drum is how many seconds?_

  5. #15
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,080
    Images
    12
    1L of E6 chemistry will develop about 10 rolls (40 sheets) of film without its rate dropping off significantly (Fuji instructions say to extend FD by 30s (8%!) for the second half of the rated capacity to maintain appropriate contrast), whereas you can fit maybe 6 rolls (3 spirals in Multitank 5) or 10 sheets (3010) in at once. There's no way you're going to run out of developer activity with a push and a full litre of developer.

    Also, most of us set the Jobo bath to 38.0C. That puts the tank contents at about 37.8C in a 24C room, according to Jobo. And E6 is happy with being a degree or two out (must be between 36 and 40 IIRC) as long as you're consistent and adjust your FD time accordingly.

    PS the bleach & fix have more capacity than the devs and since they're to completion, I just run them a couple minutes longer to be sure. Also the reversal bath and pre-bleach, so you can be more-sparing with replenishing/replacing those, though they're pretty cheap compared to bleach. One of my local labs (the struggling one) was saying that they were having issues with pre-bleach going off; the effect isn't visible in the slides immediately after processing but the slides degrade rapidly thereafter apparently, so keep your pre-bleach fresh. And do not rinse between pre-bleach and bleach, there is an expected/desired chemical reaction between those two baths occurring in the film.

  6. #16
    Roger Cole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Suburbs of Atlanta, GA USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,764
    Pre-bleach? I ran a fair amount of E6 back in the 80s and 90s (both 6 bath and, when they came out, three bath) and I don't recall a pre-bleach.

  7. #17
    wildbill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Grand Rapids
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,376
    Images
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    Pre-bleach? I ran a fair amount of E6 back in the 80s and 90s (both 6 bath and, when they came out, three bath) and I don't recall a pre-bleach.
    The chems must have gotten to you!
    I've never processed e6 w/o it.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  8. #18
    Roger Cole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Suburbs of Atlanta, GA USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,764
    It's been a while, granted. Heck I might even have an old instruction sheet in the room I used as a darkroom in my patents house back then. I'll look next time I visit.

  9. #19
    Roger Cole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Suburbs of Atlanta, GA USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,764
    All I can find online is instructions for the three bath. They certainly don't have a "pre-blix" or the like, though there is a rinse.

    I know it's heresy but when the three bath kits came out I compared a small (1 quart, I think, in those days) 3 bath with the 6 bath Unicolor I had been using and actually preferred, by a small margin, the results from the three bath. No one said anything about longevity, and I do still have some of the slides and they are fine. I switched to three bath when I used up the last of that 6 bath since it was quicker and easier and I actually preferred the results (slightly.) I don't remember enough of the details to tell you why.

  10. #20
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,080
    Images
    12
    I think pre-bleach now contains some of the preservative that was previously present in the final rinse, plus something to increase bleach activity. Not sure.

    A blix should be OK if the blix is mixed- and used-fresh. If the blix sits on the shelf for a while though, not so good.

    Edit: the E6 Process Manual which explains why pre-bleach is there (dye stabilisers, for lack of formaldehyde) amongst other things. Bob, this is worth reading.
    Last edited by polyglot; 10-14-2013 at 09:10 PM. Click to view previous post history.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin