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Thread: My first RA-4

  1. #11
    bvy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne View Post
    The only thing that might stop me is quality. C-41 must be done at the higher temp for best results. Does that apply to RA-4 as well? Anyway I'm content with drums for the immediate future.
    I'm not the expert. I believe RA-4 is optimized for 94F processing, but it delivers perfectly good results at higher and lower temperatures, providing you adjust times and filtrations accordingly. Even so, I would pick a time/temp/process and stick with it for a while. Consistency is always your friend.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne View Post
    .................................................. ............

    I thought RA-4 Blix is supposed to smell horrible? I like the smell! It smells sweet and fruity! The developer smells like possum urine. But I think I want to try trays, knowing now that the blix isn't bad at all.

    ..................................
    Interesting comment, "the developer smells like possum urine" Sounds like a connoisseur speaking..
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post
    I'm not the expert. I believe RA-4 is optimized for 94F processing, but it delivers perfectly good results at higher and lower temperatures, providing you adjust times and filtrations accordingly. Even so, I would pick a time/temp/process and stick with it for a while. Consistency is always your friend.
    I always thought the recommendation was 100F.
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  4. #14
    bvy
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    Quote Originally Posted by fotch View Post
    I always thought the recommendation was 100F.
    http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...bs/j39/j39.pdf

    See tables 3 and 4.

  5. #15
    RPC
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    Wayne,

    Using Kodak RA/RT Developer Replenisher and Kodak bleach-fix you can process at room temperature (68-75F) with excellent results with Kodak Endura and Fuji Crystal Archive papers and my guess is Arista papers would work as well. This allows you to use trays and makes print processing about as easy as it can get. I use just developer and bleach-fix with no problems. I used drums at one time at high temps but after switching to trays my productivity increased greatly. It was a time waster having to wash and dry the drum after every print and different sized prints weren't easily made. And why have to fool with temperature control? Trays at room temperature solved those problems. The RA/RT has a long life, even in trays. After a printing session I pour the developer back into a glass bottle, full, tightly capped and save it for the next session. Depending on the length of the sessions I can get several sessions before the developer expires. You might try the Arista developer at room temp and see if it works. You should use whatever method works best for you but just letting you know there is an alternative method used by many Apuggers.

  6. #16
    bvy
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    Quote Originally Posted by RPC View Post
    It was a time waster having to wash and dry the drum after every print...
    Fill the drum with water before you load the paper. Problem solved.

  7. #17
    RPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post
    Fill the drum with water before you load the paper. Problem solved.
    There is likely to be residual chemistry in the drum, especially if you wash the print in a tray instead of the drum, as many do. Then you would have to wash the drum.

  8. #18
    bvy
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    I can only speak from experience, but I've never had any problems. I do rinse my prints in the drum (fill and dump), but even so, I can't imagine that anything more than a good hot water rinse is needed between prints. I only occasionally wash my drums with soap.

    Even if you do wash the drum, there's no need for it to be bone dry. Filling it with water before loading the paper not only tempers the drum but also serves as a prewash. And it would only further dilute any residual chemistry if that's still a concern.

    (Granted, with very large drums (16x20), this approach might be is impractical.)

  9. #19
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    I have never smelled the byproducts of a possum so I cannot comment on the developer.

    The blix is just about odorless and takes on more of an ammonia odor as you process. Use of a stop, or addition of 28% acetic acid to get to a pH of about 6 - 6.5 will remove the odor. I use a stop. It gives more even results all around.

    You can process from 68F to 100F with no problems by adjusting time. There is a tiny color balance shift on the magenta yellow axis with Endura.

    PE

  10. #20
    RPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    ...addition of 28% acetic acid to get to a pH of about 6 - 6.5 will remove the odor. I use a stop. It gives more even results all around.


    PE
    I get even results without a stop but I agitate the bleach-fix vigorously immediately after immersing the print. I too have notice an odor after extended use of the bleach-fix, and figuring the pH was off, adjusted it and as you say it goes away.

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