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  1. #1

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    Tetenal E-6 first developer replacement

    Hi,

    I bought a Tetenal E-6 kit a while ago and the first developer is going sour. In the past I have had my chems go a year as concentrate when I purge the bottles with Argon ( cause I have it ). This FD is not going to make it near that long. Question is, is there a suitable replacement? I've heard B&W developer but am not sure that really works ( works well ).

    Thanks

    Joel

  2. #2

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    I may be wrong, but the 1st developer is a basic concoction to develop the part of the film that is going to be bleached away. So if I am right, after a bit of testing you could possibly find a developer elsewhere that will do the same task. I will have a chat with a photo lab friend of mine to see if this is correct.

    UPDATE

    I have just spoken to my friend and he states that if you approach Tetenal direct they may be able to supply you with the correct developer for a small charge. The idea of using a normal B&W developer would not work very well due to the difference in processing temperatures. Have a look at this link for the company.

    http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/cart/E-6-Kits/
    Last edited by BMbikerider; 01-22-2014 at 06:01 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #3
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    If you look at a typical working recipe for E6 FD like here or here, you see right away that there are significant differences between E6 FD and regular b&w developers. Working solution strength E6 FD is loaded with Phenidone/Dimezone-S plus secondary developer and would develop regular b&w film in fractions of a minute. That is at room temperature, not the 38°C normally used for E6 processing!

    It is also specifically balanced to create three matching characteristic curves for the respective three color layers. A standard b&w developer might get your slides developed, if you let it soak long enough at full strength and elevated temperature, but you will get unpredictable toe and shoulder regions, which means your blacks or your white could be off, each in different directions. You will likely waste more E6 film in the process of fine tuning your results than what you would spend on a new 5l kit.

    My recommendation would be: if you can, get a replacement bottle from Tetenal, if that doesn't work out, either home brew (stefan4u's recipe works very well) or get a new kit.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  4. #4

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    According to some friends that have tested it, Tetenal Dokumol 1+9 will do the trick. Same temperature and times

  5. #5

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    There is a motion picture film first developers that you could try. The results may be somewhat inferior to a developer designed for E-6, but it will probably work to some extent.

    Kodak DR-100 Reversal First Developer
    First developer for the Process VNF-1 used for Ektachrome motion picture film.
    Water (21 – 38C) 800 ml
    Quadrafos 2 g (sequestering agent)
    Sodium metabisulfite (anh) 8 g
    Phenidone 350 mg
    Sodium sulfite (anh) 37 g
    Hydroquinone 5.5 g
    Sodium carbonate (anh) 28.2 g
    Sodium thicyanate 1.38g
    Sodium bromide (anh) 1.3 g
    Potassium iodide 13 mg
    Water to make 1 l
    pH at 25C = 9.93; density at 25C = 1.075
    Develop camera film 3minutes and 10 seconds at 37.8C.
    Develop print film 2 minutes and 6 seconds at 37.8C

    Sodium hexametaphosphate can be substituted for the Quadrafos, or it can be omitted if you use distilled or deionized water.

  6. #6
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Kodak E-6 first dev is cheap, it makes 10L worth of replenisher, you'll need starter to go with it.



 

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