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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    You do realize that plain old water will work as a stop bath, right?

    The difference is mostly in how fast it stops development, water just takes a few seconds longer than fresh stop.
    If the difference is only 1 or 2 seconds, why does ANYONE use stop bath?

  2. #12

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    Because it halts development dead, hardens the gelatin, and protects the longevity of the fixer. Just makes best sense.

    BTW--you could conceivably slice up a cool cucumber from your garden into a bowl, pour in a little stop bath, and sprinkle on a little salt and pepper for some mighty fine eatin'.
    Last edited by Tom1956; 02-26-2014 at 08:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #13
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    It may take 20-30 seconds instead of 10, so you may pour off your developer 10-15 seconds early say at 9min 50sec, instead of 10min. Sometimes no development adjustment is even needed.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    Because it halts development dead, hardens the gelatin, and protects the longevity of the fixer. Just makes best sense.

    BTW--you could conceivably slice up a cool cucumber from your garden into a bowl, pour in a little stop bath, and sprinkle on a little salt and pepper for some mighty fine eatin'.
    Hardens the gelatin, sure about that?

    As to protecting the fix water does the same thing, just takes a hair longer (and smells better).
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    Hardens the gelatin, sure about that?

    As to protecting the fix water does the same thing, just takes a hair longer (and smells better).
    Hardens it more than it was while it was in the developer. Though I wouldn't go so far as to call it "a hardener".

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    Hardens it more than it was while it was in the developer. Though I wouldn't go so far as to call it "a hardener".
    the imperative reason for an acidic stop bath is to reduce the probability of stains with some developers... Real horrible with a print. It does reduce alkaline carry over into fixer as well.

    with non prehardened film or plates you might have used a hardened bath.

    with non prehardened film you run more risks of reticulation with an acid stop manufactures would caveat this...

    Ansell A and Barry Thorton used a borax post bath with film cause an 'instant' stop was not what they wanted

    web gossip is wonderful stuff

  7. #17
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    Besides the fact that it is so cheap, why chance anything, dump it after you're finished.

  8. #18
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    Ratty, you're really over thinking this. Plain tap water works just fine....Kodak indicator stop bath is exhausted when it turns blue (instead of dark yellow) but, I never keep it that long.
    Last edited by BradS; 02-26-2014 at 11:53 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19

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    I'll never agree with the "plain water stopbath" people. I always liked Kodak's way.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradS View Post
    Ratty, you're really over thinking this. Plain tap water works just fine....Kodak indicator stop bath is exhausted when it turns blue (instead of dark yellow) but, I never keep it that long.
    I'm not over thinking this. You guys are!

    I'm looking for a number. At what pH is stop bath considered exhausted? Give me a number. That's all I want.

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