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  1. #21
    RPC
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    The ingredients on my Flexicolor part C lists bisulfite, but no sulfite. When I substitute CD-4 for part C I don't add any bisulfite, print RA-4, and get good gray scales, contrast and skin tones that compare well with Flexicolor. Therefore the lack of bisulfite apparently has no great affect. At least none that is noticable to me.

  2. #22
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    If it works, use it!

    PE

  3. #23
    RPC
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    It seems to work for me, but as we say, YMMV!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    If it works, use it!

    PE
    Thanks, PE.

    I really want to do it right, not just feel that it works. I will experiment more next time by adding sodium bisulfite. It is a cheap chemical and easy to get. If it makes a difference I will report back here. Before that happens Can you tell me if it makes any sense by adding a few grams per liter of sodium bisulfite. Kodak probably does not get it in the Part C concentrate that way. But I can only do it the easy way. Basically I will discard my Part C bottle and substitute it with CD-4 powder and sodium bisulfate.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtjade2007 View Post
    Thanks, PE.

    I really want to do it right, not just feel that it works. I will experiment more next time by adding sodium bisulfite. It is a cheap chemical and easy to get. If it makes a difference I will report back here. Before that happens Can you tell me if it makes any sense by adding a few grams per liter of sodium bisulfite. Kodak probably does not get it in the Part C concentrate that way. But I can only do it the easy way. Basically I will discard my Part C bottle and substitute it with CD-4 powder and sodium bisulfate.
    Is there a way to adjust this technique for the 3 bath JOBO kit?

    I'm about to do a run of C-41 with that kit. I don't have it on hand but I don't recall having an A,B, and C packet... I could be wrong of course.
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  6. #26
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    Well, IDK how much Sulfite is in the other parts of the Kodak kit, so I would go by the MSDS as much as possible when kluding a mix. It will work, but to varying degrees of "perfection". Since your results are good so far, I would not worry too much. If the developer begins to darken or oil out, then you did need more Sulfite.

    As for a 3 bath kit, remember... you need Developer, Bleach, Fix and Final Rinse / Stabilzer. That is also to do a good job. And sometimes, you need a Stop Bath after the developer. This again is to do it to "perfection".

    In my long experience with C41, a blix just does not fully do the job unless the manufacturer is using some variation on the patent that we had on blixes.

    PE

  7. #27
    RPC
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    Mtjade, you can try adding the bisulfite but an educated guess is that it is there more for long term storage of part C than anything. Leaving it out may cause a slight pH difference of the mixed developer that could be adjusted with acid. You mentioned not wanting to deal with pH adjustments but if you want to really do things right, then you should check and adjust the pH if you are going to do any experimenting such as adding the bisulfite.

  8. #28
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    It is there for color adjustment, contrast adjustment and sharpness / grain control as well as keeping.

    See above post by Rudeofus.

    PE

  9. #29
    RPC
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    Bisulfite or sulfite? I know sulfite competes with coupler for oxidized developer, but does bisulfite? Do we know for sure that part C contains sulfite? I know it is in part A. I thought bisulfite, being acidic, was in part C to preserve. If it is there to prevent oil in storage as Rudeofus says, this would not affect Mtjade, since he mixes as needed and uses it up.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Well, IDK how much Sulfite is in the other parts of the Kodak kit, so I would go by the MSDS as much as possible when kluding a mix. It will work, but to varying degrees of "perfection". Since your results are good so far, I would not worry too much. If the developer begins to darken or oil out, then you did need more Sulfite.

    As for a 3 bath kit, remember... you need Developer, Bleach, Fix and Final Rinse / Stabilzer. That is also to do a good job. And sometimes, you need a Stop Bath after the developer. This again is to do it to "perfection".

    In my long experience with C41, a blix just does not fully do the job unless the manufacturer is using some variation on the patent that we had on blixes.

    PE

    Yes I remember you said I should extend the blix time so as to try and make sure more of the silver is taken care of. I'm going to go through this batch and then next time I'll separate out the bleach and fix.

    I still can't remember the formula for the E-6 version of the stabilizer... mine never came with one... I know that's not what this thread is about but I know its different than C-41

    Thanks PE.
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

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