Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 74,529   Posts: 1,645,732   Online: 942
      
Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 64
  1. #31

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    290
    Hmm... I also use 2-bath Pyrocat a lot. Might that work? I can dilute it further. Currently, I use 1:12
    // My name is Richard Man, I can't get APUG to change my username :-)
    // I am a Hybrid Photographer, using 4x5, Hasselblad, Leica etc. with digital post-processing workflow.
    http://richardmanphoto.com http://facebook.com/richardmanphoto

  2. #32
    Athiril's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,790
    Images
    28
    This is the very first attempt. Everything except the results is speculation. You'd have to test, and compare it against a control strip from the same roll

  3. #33
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    24,353
    Images
    65
    I think that you might find that repeated runs through the C41 process after the Rodinal, and using the rehal bleach will sharpen the toe and give an effective speed increase by changing the toe contrast into usable image. I've done this sort of "amplification" before and used multiple rehal cycles.

    PE

  4. #34
    Athiril's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,790
    Images
    28
    That'd be interesting.. you'd also get the negative from Rodinal adding to the dye image too.

  5. #35
    davidpotter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    street 1 le duan
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    3
    follow me, In my very limited experience with semi-stand developing the diluted Rodinal seems to give a very appealing (to me anyway) look to the grain at higher ISO's in B&W film. The Tetenal and Digibase C-41 is not as nice when pushed. I thought a partial development in 1:100 Rodinal for some period of time, rinse, then complete the color development with a normal or pull C-41 process might let me obtain a negative with decent color and reduced grain compared to normal push.
    Thông tin dịch vụ mạng internet cáp quanglắp mạng fpt bạc liêulắp mạng fpt thái nguyênlắp mạng fpt an gianglắp đặt wifi tại b́nh dương tốt nhất hiện nay. Ngoài ra chúng tôi c̣n cung cấp thông tin dịch vụ lắp mạng fpt hoàn kiếm với tốc độ nhanh nhất.
    Author: The Best Smartphone Display

  6. #36

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Georgia, USA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    284
    It took me a while but I finally got around to processing some film with a Rodinal Pre-Treatment. This is from a football game where the best exposure I could get on the field for Portra 400 at 1/250th and f/2.8 was about 2 and 1/3rd stop under exposed (ISO 2000 equivalent) so I decided it was time to try out the Rodinal pre-treat. I'm very happy with the results.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/lamarl...7649126917440/

  7. #37
    Rudeofus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,114
    Images
    12
    This looks very nice! I am very tempted to do this myself with the next roll. I can confirm that your results look a lot better than my attempts to push Portra 400 to EI 1600 ...
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  8. #38
    Athiril's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,790
    Images
    28
    Since you are processing at home, if you do a hard push in developer combined with a pre-flash you will get significantly better results.

    The pre-flash + push method improvement in recordable shadow detail was significantly better than the improvement the Rodinal 1:100 stand for 10 minutes before normal developing improvement. Given a push the Rodinal pre-treatment may work better though, I think combined with a pre-flash and push it'd be better again with possibly 1+ stops gain, allowing a lower pre-flash as well, and a faster speed rating when combined.

    With a pre-flash and push on it's own I think you could go to 3200 and 6400 on Portra 400 better than what you've got here at EI 2000.

  9. #39

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Georgia, USA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    284
    I want to try pre-flashing but I'll have to figure out how to apply the pre-flash for my shooting situations. I looked back at an old post where I had asked about pre-flashes and it reminded me I had a couple of challenges. If I pre-flash an entire roll up front how do I make sure the frames line up again after I rewind and re-load. If I use the double exposure method I will need to learn to apply that functionality in a situation where I may want to take successive shots quickly. I never intentionally double expose so I've only done it by accident with some old cameras.... :-)

  10. #40

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1,209
    If you are using 135 film, then just use a marker to make your own "start" mark on the film leader. Load the film so that it is definitely on the take up spool, choose a piece of the camera as a guide (eg. the side of the frame), draw your mark, then make a careful note of how many blank exposures you give before starting shooting your flash exposures. Upon rewinding, keep the film tail out for simplicity and reload using the same start mark, alignment point and number of blanks. The film will be registered (near enough) by the sprocket holes and the counting mechanism built in to the camera.

    On a normal 135 camera, a double exposure button usually just disengages the sprocket-drive from the shutter-cocking, so the next exposure is not a full eight sprocket holes long because of the partial sprocket clutch (if that's what the thing is called?) rotation needed to re-engage the drive. Effectively choosing a double-exposure like this means you need to wind on a blank frame (shoot with lens covered for example) to avoid overlapping frames.
    Last edited by MartinP; 12-03-2014 at 10:55 AM. Click to view previous post history.

Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin