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  1. #1

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    Using Rodinal to Push Portra 400

    I read a while back where someone used Rodinal to stand develop C-41 at 1:100 for an hour(??) then rinsed and processed normally in C41 developer/blix/stab to get pushed color negatives with color. I never saw a posted scan though. Has anyone heard of this? I know you can use Rodinal to process C-41 and get B&W results, its the partial stand then full develop with normal C-41 chems afterwards I'm interested in trying if it's possible to get color results that are better than a normal 2 stop C-41 push.

  2. #2
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Yep. Done something similar. Can't remember if I did stand develop or not though. I don't think I have any stand develop versions up. But here is what I do have.


    Superia Xtra 400 Test Shot (Custom Process) by athiril, on Flickr


    Superia Xtra 400 Test Shot (Custom Process) Comparison by athiril, on Flickr


    Little Cousin by athiril, on Flickr


    The best push results I've had in C-41, is from combining a pre-flash with a long push.


    This is Superia 800 exposed at 12800, with a C-41 development time of 6 minutes (38 degrees celsius)
    A bit poor

    Superia 800 @ 12800 no preflash by athiril, on Flickr

    Here is what happens when you get just the right pre-flash, from the same roll, so same development, just with a pre-flash

    Superia 800 @ 12800 Zone 3 preflash by athiril, on Flickr



    I've been meaning to do this, but test it with post-flash and see if the results are the same, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

  3. #3
    erikg's Avatar
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    Better? Depends on what you think is better, but yes you can use Rodinal or any other common developer as the first developer in c-41. I used to use Rodinal as part of a cross process (ektachrome as color neg). Photo Techniques published a recipe for it. I liked the look, but it wasn't a conventional look.

  4. #4
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    I was actually wondering about this recently. I had read about it a few months ago, but couldn't find the article.

    Anyone do the opposite? Pull Portra 400 to get even more Dynamic Range? Maybe a similar first developer to the people using T-Grain films and putting 17 stops of usable DR to film. Maybe longer in the color developer to bring out some more saturation?
    New-ish convert to film.
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  5. #5
    Mustafa Umut Sarac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fretlessdavis View Post
    I was actually wondering about this recently. I had read about it a few months ago, but couldn't find the article.

    Anyone do the opposite? Pull Portra 400 to get even more Dynamic Range? Maybe a similar first developer to the people using T-Grain films and putting 17 stops of usable DR to film. Maybe longer in the color developer to bring out some more saturation?
    Excellent idea !
    Can you please ask easier questions ? One Apug members request .

  6. #6

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    Well I just shot a taekwondo belt testing using roll of Portra 400 at ISO 1600 to experiment with. I probably need to shoot up a few more rolls of C41 before I mix up batch of chemicals so it may be a week or two before I process. That will give me some time to study up. Thanks for all the info!!

  7. #7
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    The process involves more than just what is described above. I hope you have it all lined up.

    PE

  8. #8

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    Yes, and no I don't. I figured that I needed quite a bit more info but to be honest I'm having problems finding any reliable data to get a starting point. I've seen where some are exposing the film to sun after the Rodinal, others are Using 1:100 Rodinal for 30 minutes then using "very very old" Tetenal developer and blix.... I haven't found too much data to work with yet. Semi-Stand using Rodinal 1:100 for 2 hours has worked well with Tri-X at ISO 3200 for me and produces images when scanned having more acceptable grain to me than the same developed in XTOL, granted the contrast is high but the images are nice and visually appealing considering the push. I was hoping to achieve the same effect with Portra 400 pushed 2 stops somehow and retain some reasonable color information. 135 Portra 400 pushed two stops in C41 chemistry is ok but I would like to see if I can get better results and reduce the grain, hence the stand.

    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    The process involves more than just what is described above. I hope you have it all lined up.

    PE
    Last edited by Lamar; 03-15-2014 at 05:55 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #9
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    If you want a negative image from a negative film, and you are aiming for about 2 stops over or under, you should never push or pull. You don't need to. More than that change and you will probably want to.

    Portra as a reversal film will give some odd colors and an orange background. Ask Dan (Athiril) for the exact procedures he used. AFAIK, he has gotten the best results so far. I've done it, but to me it is a waste of good film (IMHO).

    PE

  10. #10

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    I tried Portra 400 at 3200 once and did not like the results but I have never tried shooting it at 1600 without pushing. Perhaps I need to do that first to see what it looks like. It would be less complicated for sure.

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