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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdmk View Post
    thank you for replies

    when I posted this it was already 11PM in my country yesterday, and I dont own any digital camera anymore so photo was taken just be phone that is why it looks as it looks.

    today I get more spirals, you think that work with metal spirals is easier? I have only plastic one

    I tried to scan this film and the result was that scanner was able to pick image under that stain. I will run it again in bleach and fix to see if that helps. Which times and temperatures should I use? The same as during standard development?
    Plastic spirals are easier to feed.

    Temperature is less critical for bleach and fix, so you don't have to heat it to exactly 100F.

  2. #12

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    yes I know about temperature, but I was not sure mostly about times. In cca 8hrs when I come home from work I will run it the same times as during normal dev and lets see. Then I will let you know if it was succcessful or not. At least this is good lessons learned for me and other people

    Also stupid question, if the part of the film which was correctly developed will be in bleach again, it will not get damaged?

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdmk
    if the part of the film which was correctly developed will be in bleach again, it will not get damaged?
    No, it will be fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nikanon View Post
    Don't have any expectations in photography.
    This is the counsel of despair, and is not helpful to someone just starting out

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdmk View Post
    yes I know about temperature, but I was not sure mostly about times. In cca 8hrs when I come home from work I will run it the same times as during normal dev and lets see. Then I will let you know if it was succcessful or not. At least this is good lessons learned for me and other people

    Also stupid question, if the part of the film which was correctly developed will be in bleach again, it will not get damaged?
    I usually bleach and fix for a few minutes longer than the prescribed time. For me it seems necessary to clear the base. It's hard to overdo it, so I extend to be on the safe side.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdmk View Post
    thank you for replies

    when I posted this it was already 11PM in my country yesterday, and I dont own any digital camera anymore so photo was taken just be phone that is why it looks as it looks.

    today I get more spirals, you think that work with metal spirals is easier? I have only plastic one

    I tried to scan this film and the result was that scanner was able to pick image under that stain. I will run it again in bleach and fix to see if that helps. Which times and temperatures should I use? The same as during standard development?
    Metal spirals are easier to load, especially when not bone dry. I can load my Kindermann 120 reels in seconds.

    Yesterday I had problems loading my Jobo with 6 sheets of 4x5 film as my hands started to sweat in the changing bag...

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdmk View Post
    ...... if the part of the film which was correctly developed will be in bleach again, it will not get damaged?
    if you do not mind you can cut corect processed part to avoid wetting the gelatin and add more scratches. at least that is what I would do in your place.

  7. #17

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    In the future, if you cannot get the roll of film loaded well, instead of leaving the extra part of the roll hanging in the breeze, cut the film off and develop the second part separately. You will end up cutting one picture in half, but will save the rest of the roll.

    One thing that I routinely do is to have a metal reel and a Paterson reel available. That way if I have trouble loading a roll, I have a back-up available. I have only been developing for just over a year, but it seems that some films (Kodak and Foma) load easiest on metal reels, while Ilford loads easiest on plastic (It's probably just me).

  8. #18
    AgX
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    -) have spare reels at hand

    -) finish drying with hairdryer

    -) If only one reel at hand in case of doubt use a test film to check that reel

  9. #19

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    well putting it into bleach and fix today didnt help at all there was one photo which I really wanted I dont care about others
    next time I will be more careful.

    I bought today extra plastic spiral and will order some stainless steel from ebay or somewhere. As Wallendo wrote, I have biggest problem with Kodak films, but Illford is more thick and gets easier into spiral

  10. #20

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    I suggest that you try a metal reel in future. I've just bought one after a similar disaster. I've always had mixed results trying to get 120 film onto a plastic reel - it just seems too wide to manage the film and the reel reliably and then it either winds off the reel again when I work the 'wheels' back and forth or it gets so far and then jams. The problems really happen if you take too long, because sweaty hands make the humidity go up and vice-versa and then the film gets sticky too. My first attempt with a metal reel took five minutes from start to finish. [I pulled the stuck film off the plastic reel and put it in the empty developing tank until the metal reel arrived. At least in my case the film was B&W so the crease marks look 'artistic' (ahem)].

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