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  1. #1

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    First steps into C41

    Well I got to admit.. C-41 is little harder than I thought but it's going okay. Never had any issues doing black and white..

    So I used a Jobo CPE2 with Digibase kit to develop some rolls. Develops are olay but they have a slightly other kind of tint and when scanned they get a little to green. Feels like there is missing something.
    It's not a color shift but more a color cast.

    Here's a picture of Portra 400 (both) (bottom one I what I developed myself, top one is what the lab developed, just a clear negative) You can see clearly that it has a different color. On my lab negatives you can see the different color layers very well. Looks like mine don't have. However when I scan them with all the color cast corrections it's okay.. but still not like how it should be.

    Any ideas what could be wrong? Need to master this
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails negatives.jpg  
    Jesse - 21 years - Belgium
    Leica M6 - Carl Zeiss Sonnar 50/1.5 T*
    www.jessestr.be

  2. #2
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    Your example looks badly underdeveloped or developed with contaminated developer. The base color should be a constant unless you use or do something bad during processing. Check your chemistry and process sequence.

    PE

  3. #3

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    As it is the Digibase kit, have a look at the very long thread on it. Yes there will be a lot there that isn't relevant but select the important processing information that contributors have given and it might tell you whether your processing is correct. The Digibase instructions if I recall correctly aren't quite as complete as they should be.

    If you cannot find anything wrong with what you did and you can be sure that you had processed at the right temperature then you might want to mix fresh chemicals or even buy a fresh kit. If the chemistry is exhausted or contaminated then it won't matter how careful you are with the process, the negatives will not be correct.

    pentaxuser

  4. #4
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    The base looks constant to me, there's some bleed off the edge of the frame, which I tend to get with my RB67 too. Also, I would be hesitant to compare 35mm and 120 base. You should compare 2 of the same from the same batch for a better comparison.

    If it's green it means your colour correction isnt right. Or do you mean selectively green in the shadows or highlights while the rest is good etc?

  5. #5
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    While the films are different, and this is not good for comparison, there does appear to be some nonuniformity.


    PE

  6. #6

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    I tried washing every time between the developer, bleacher, fixer & stabilizer. With new chemicals. Seems that the issues are gone. The guide didn't tell me to wash between each process.
    Jesse - 21 years - Belgium
    Leica M6 - Carl Zeiss Sonnar 50/1.5 T*
    www.jessestr.be

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jessestr View Post
    I tried washing every time between the developer, bleacher, fixer & stabilizer. With new chemicals. Seems that the issues are gone. The guide didn't tell me to wash between each process.
    Well done. I simply recalled that the Digibase process was less than the full process that was arrived at by the combined efforts of several posters and now you mention it I can now remember that the washing steps were considered to be necessary.

    pentaxuser

  8. #8
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    A stop bath after the developer might have done the same thing. IDK.

  9. #9

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    I had a few issues of uneven development and colour problems with my C41 process to begin with (using the Tetenal kit). These extra steps have fixed it:

    1. Add a 2% acetic acid stop bath between my colour dev and blix
    2. One minute wash after the stop bath with two changes of water
    3. Ensure the blix is well aerated before use (shake the bottle vigorously for 30 seconds)
    4. Increase the blix time by 50%

    ...all fixed thanks to the good folks on APUG :-)

    I run the process on my Jobo CPA2, except the stabiliser, which I agitate very gently by hand to prevent too much bubbling. I find that if the stabiliser runs on the Jobo I end up with bubbly stains on the film. These are annoying, but don't show up on the scans - so may not be a big issue.

  10. #10

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    Thanks. I'm planning to do the C41 again with agitation in stead of rotary development. If I try to be very consistent in agitation.. Would it be just as good?

    Thanks
    Jesse - 21 years - Belgium
    Leica M6 - Carl Zeiss Sonnar 50/1.5 T*
    www.jessestr.be

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