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  1. #1
    Galaxens President's Avatar
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    Tetenal 3-bath E6 and Velvia 100F

    Im trying to gain confidence to do my first E6 development and this with Fuji Velvia 100F 4x5" sheet film. However I am uncertain how to choose processing time.

    I will be doing my E6 in a Cibachrome drum for 8x10 sheets. Where minimum of 75ml and maximum of 100ml of chemistry can be used. I've used this for B/W development before and used constant manual rolling agitation in a waterbath. If being carefull 2 sheets can be processed simultaneously (there is no separator for 4x5" sheets).

    Listed time for first developer is, if 500ml solution is used:
    6'15" for first two rolls, 6'30" for the next two rolls and 6'45" for last two rolls¨
    And if 1000ml solution is used:
    the same times but using four rolls instead of two in the tank each run.

    Can I assume linearity, extrapolate and use the same times using 100ml of solution each run and with sheet film corresponding to the same emulsion area as 2/(500ml/100ml)=4/(1000ml/100ml)=0.4 rolls of film and do 3 runs before disposing the chemicals? Similarly for the other baths. I guess I could use one-shot chemicals but also the chemistry is expensive in Sweden.

    What is the area of a 36 frame 135 film or a 120-film? I remember T-max RS used an equivalence of 1 roll of either 135 or 120 film corresponded to one 8x10" sheet in the replenishment rates. Can I assume the same here?

    What is the rotation rate of rotary development systems that I'll try to mimic?

    Lastly, I've heard somewhere that Fuji films should use extended development times in Tetenal 3-bath E6 kit as compared to Kodak films? Can anyone confirm or dismiss this? I guess it is reasonable to do this kind of pushprocessing for Velvia 50 which by many are rated lower than 50 but I've been told that Velvia 100F is truly a iso 100 film. Anyone tried this combination of Tetenal 3-bath E6 and Velvia 100F in particular and can share their findings?

    Again I could try and see but I am trying to gain that extra confidence before starting and sheet color transparancy film and E6 chemistry is quite expensive so I'd prefer getting it right the first time. I am so looking forward to watching that first 4x5" slide on the lighttable.

    Thanks,
    Richard

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    1 35mm roll equals 1 8x10 sheet or 4 4x5s.

    Don't fiddle with the times unless you're having problems.

    If you go to the Jobo website you should find a piece on using longer times with Fuji film. I don't remember if that was the tetenal setup or Kodak 5litre.

    If I understand what you wrote. 250ml per 35mm roll? Or 62.5ml per 4x5 sheet. If you can only use a max of 100ml I'd run one sheet at a time. Will the kit let you mix up odd amounts of chemicals?

  3. #3
    Galaxens President's Avatar
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    The smallest chemistry volume listed is for 500ml for 2 films per run, the first run 6'15" then increasing time for another two runs before discarding the chemicals.

    Hence, If extrapolation is valid I should, be able to use 62.5 (or in my case 75ml per sheet) and reuse that chemistry 3 times with increasing time. That'll give me 40 sheets per litre in stead of 13 if I use one shot. I guess oxidization during aggitation could be a problem when using these small volumes.

    Times are also listed for using 6 rolls in 500ml of chemistry (one shot) hence 20.83ml should be sufficient chemistry per sheet if used one shot. Thus I should based on this be able to 26 sheets on 1 litre.

    The first developer, and bleach fixer says "part preparation possible", the color developer and stabilizing baths does not.

    Which of these are most prone to oxidization and aging?

  4. #4
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    There is definately a time difference between Fuji and Kodak E6 in that kit. Read the Tetenal manual for details. Based on 12 rolls per liter, if you are doing only 2 rolls in a tank at once you will fully exhaust 42mm of chemicals. Since you need a minimum of 75ml for the tak you will be able to do two runs with 84ml, adding some time for the second run (about 23 seconds I would guess). I would try a slow speed, maybe 30 rpm. I would start with the times for the Jobo and adjust after a run.

  5. #5
    Galaxens President's Avatar
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    Thank you very much,
    The included tetenal manual says nothing about different development times for Fuji and Kodak films that I could find (though +/-2 min for push/pull processing). However I posted the same question at the http://largeformatphotography.info/l...ic/501550.html forum and got the figure of 16% increased development time for Fuji film.

    Ok, 42mm chemicals per roll that'll be 10.5 per sheet, hence I should be able to do 3 runs with 75ml chemicals and two sheets 4x5" each and still have some margin.

  6. #6
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    I mistyped, it should be two "sheets" wil exhaust 42ml. Sorry for the confusion.

    The 16% is what I remember now from my Tetenal 3 bath kit as well for the Fuji films.

  7. #7
    Galaxens President's Avatar
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    That makes perfect sense to me. Thanks. Now the remaining part is to keep the temperature, but that's something I can try first without film and plain water instead of chemicals.

    Thank you very much all of you.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Galaxens President
    That makes perfect sense to me.
    I talked to Tetenal about this issue last fall and was told that different times for Kodak and Fuji Films aren't recommended and that the whole issue was based on some info from several years ago adressing user-complaints which turned out to be mainly based on the reduced speed of Velvia 50 in E6 instead Fuji-chemistry. in their words the whole issue can and should be settled with Velvia 50 exposed at 40 ASA and any other Fuji-films.

    If in doubt, drop them a line from their webpage. I got called by technical support about an hour after leaving my question. As you are in Sweden I expect them to answer your mail in due course instead of calling you.

  9. #9
    Galaxens President's Avatar
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    Did my first development today with the extended fuji times (7min30s) and got pretty good results. See a scan of the photo here:
    http://www.fotosidan.se/gallery/view...&target=_blank

    I meetered with a Sekonik L-558 spotmetered recalibrated to match its incident meter when the spot is facing a 18% graycard. The highlights of the Ice in the foreground was Zone VII and the shadows of the "docks" in the upper right fell in zone III+1/2. To me it looks like the development+exposure was right on the spot.

    And man, isn't it cool to look at a 4x5" slide on the lighttable? I'll definately will keep at least one of my film holders loaded with slide film in the future, in case I run into that perfect color motiv.

    Thanks for all your help,

    Cheers,

    Richard

  10. #10
    rjr
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    Richard,

    I want to drop in the email adress in addition to Stefan´s recommendation - you can contact Walter Buddelmann, the man in charge of Service at Tetenal via technicalservice@tetenal.com - he is usually very helpful and skilled, responding fast to most questions.

    One time he sent me a scanned manual on request - my inquiry dated to 9pm Thursday, he replied with a pdf attachment by 9am the following day.

    Btw, that scan looks pretty good. But wait until you see a 8x10 slide on the lighttable. ;-)
    Tschüss,
    Roman

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