Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,502   Posts: 1,543,388   Online: 786
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15
  1. #11
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Ipswich, Massachusetts, USA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    4,520
    Images
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by stevewillard
    Hmm...
    If you exposed the negative film in the same manner as you did the slide then the negative will be greatly underexposed. To be more percise, proper metering for slide film requies reading the highlights. You do NOT want to do that with negative film. With negative film it is very important that you meter the shadows.
    -Stephen
    I do a LOT of "Copying Art Work" - producing 35mm Transparencies for submission to Galleries and Art Schools. NO ONE is more critical of color fidelity than the Artist who painted the work.
    Therefore, all my work in done in the Studio, with Dynalites - and the only metering I do is incident - with a GOSSEN Ultra-Pro, and the "Studio" attachment.

    I'm a little puzzled as to the difference between exposure for Color Transparency film and Color Negative --- can you give a little more detailed description of why the shadow - highlight metering is necessary?
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  2. #12
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Ipswich, Massachusetts, USA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    4,520
    Images
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by reinierv
    I use amaloco chemicals and have used 1 month old developper and too low temperatures (34-36C) and still had decent results...
    "Amaloco" chemicals? - I've been searching for an alternative to Tetenal. Can you direct me to more information about Amaloco?
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  3. #13
    jperkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    76
    Images
    11
    [color=black][font=Verdana]Okay, this is super embarrassing - but I'll be upfront and come back with my findings. In short, AllanD you were right! I loaded the film holders incorrectly, and I apologize big time for being a cocky bastard. You can read on if you wish to hear my sorted tale… [/font][/color]
    [color=black][/color]

    [color=black][font=Verdana]First of all, yesterday after work I came home and shot 2 carefully metered portrait exposures in good natural light in front of the house. Later, I mixed fresh chemicals and processed the first sheet. SAME PROBLEM…GROSSLY UNDEREXPOSED…[/font][/color]

    [color=black][font=Verdana]Just before cursing Kodak, I went and retrieved the sheet box and looked on the back. Those pesky notches..! I’m starting to think I’m mildly dyslexic…[/font][/color]

    [color=black][font=Verdana]Anyway, on every b&w film I’ve used the notch is on top right (if viewing the emulsion side up with the sheet held vertically). This was my first box of Kodak 4x5 ever. Yes it’s true… [/font][/color]
    [color=black][/color]

    [color=black][font=Verdana]Before I initially loaded my holders, I was looking carefully at the strange notch pattern, and somewhere in my crazy brain I decided that Kodak must be different. Or is it all color film? Or is it remembering that someone who said to me not 3 weeks ago that some notches are on the opposite side of the edge (this is true, someone said this to me)? [/font][/color]
    [color=black][/color]

    [color=black][font=Verdana]Well, I put the damn sheets in emulsion side down. This was deliberate, and it makes it that much more embarrassing. I’ve never even had this happen with b&w sheets by accident, much less on purpose.[/font][/color]

    [color=black][font=Verdana]So… I go back downstairs and correct my remaining holders with the Kodak color sheets (hopefully I didn’t scratch the emulsion) and I shot a test sheet indoors just to confirm that I haven’t gone completely crazy. It turned out perfect after development. Valuable and silly lesson learned…[/font][/color]

    [color=black][font=Verdana]I’ll have to ask another question (as soon as all the laughter dies down)… Do any sheet films have the notches on the other side of that top edge..?[/font][/color]

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Milwaukee, Wi
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    3,242

    A suggestion

    For those of you that use very little C-41 and are into compounding their own developers in the Nov/Dec 1995 Phototechniques magazine has an article by Patrick D. Dignan. Its title is "Dignan NCF-41 A divided developer that works" It is about a divided developer with A and B baths. The batths are kep seperate. The developer has unlimited shelf life. It is used at 75ºF.

    Bath A:
    Distilled water (300 ml)
    Sodium bisulfite .5 grams
    CD-4 5.5 Grams
    Sodium Sulphite (anhy) 4.5 grams
    Distilled water to make 500 ml total
    PH at 75ºF up to 6.5
    Time in bath A 3 minutes including drain
    Use continous or intermittent agitation


    Bath B
    Distilled water 500 ml
    Potassium Carbonate 53 grams
    Potassium Bromide .5 grams
    Benzotriazole (anti fog #2) 2 milligrams.
    Water to make 1 liter total
    (he mentions that he did not use the Benzotriazole
    time in bbath b 6 minutes including drain
    PH at 75ºF 11.8
    Use your chosen agitation method
    Rest of the development in stop, bleach and fix in regular chemicals

    @ 2:45 minutes pour part a back into bottle
    (no developing takes place in part a)

    Use part B 0ne shot
    @ 5:45 pour bath down the drain

    BATH A MUST NEVER BE CONTAMINATED WITH BATH B
    No prewet should be used.

    An Acetic acid stopbath is used.
    The bleach at 75ºF will be much slower. Film can stay in the bleach for 1/2 hour w/o a problem The film can not be over bleached. Remeber that the bleach is meant to remove 100% of the silver so over bleaching can not happen. It is entirely possible to under bleach.

    I have not tried this formula myself.
    For those of you not familar with his name Mr. Dignan has been known for a longtime in the photographic industry and is highly respected.

    This is said to be a very inexpensive developr.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    653
    "Do any sheet films have the notches on the other side of that top edge..?"

    Yes, all reversal films do so you can tell them apart in the dark. No, only kidding. As far as I know all notch codes are always top/right corner.

    If you still have one of those film holders loaded backwards, you might try to take a picture of today's eclipse.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin