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  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne
    I'd be interested to know if you have any real success with this, I tried numerous divided developers a few years ago and had very little luck lowering the contrast. I contacted someone who had used the same formulas successfully to lower contrast in the past, and he claimed the emulsion changed a few years ago and it no longer works. That was my experience, and I finally gave up trying.
    Hi Wayne,

    Yes, it works although it requires some calibration and testing initially. As in B&W film processing you increase exposure and reduce development time (or temperature) or change to a slower/lower contrast developer. It doesn't beat contrast reduction masking for ultimate control but if you require less than a paper grade change (or thereabouts) it's an option. I've used it to print from transparencies which I couldn't reasonably print using the P30 kits without losing the shadow detail or washing out the highlights.

    Roger.

  2. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by ras351
    Hi Wayne,

    Yes, it works although it requires some calibration and testing initially. As in B&W film processing you increase exposure and reduce development time (or temperature) or change to a slower/lower contrast developer. It doesn't beat contrast reduction masking for ultimate control but if you require less than a paper grade change (or thereabouts) it's an option. I've used it to print from transparencies which I couldn't reasonably print using the P30 kits without losing the shadow detail or washing out the highlights.

    Roger.


    Thats good to know, in case I ever get back on the Ciba wagon again. It must not work as well as it used to though, as my source had used dd's for years, stopped printing for a while and then poof-it didnt work like it used to. I guess I was able to get some slight contrast reduction, ceertainly less than a grade, but not enough to make me happy.

  3. #63
    EdM
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    Ilfochrome P 3.5

    Quote Originally Posted by SkipA
    I called every photo store in town that keeps darkroom supplies. None have Ilfochrome P-30 kits or Ilfochrome paper. One has had the P-30 kits on backorder since January. They all say they simply can't get it anymore.

    Adorama is out of stock. B&H has it but won't ship it. Freestyle has Arista 2 liter kit, but not P-30. Calumet is out of stock.

    I've done a bit of RA-4 printing from negatives, but I've never made R-prints before. I just want the experience of making contrast masks and producing one or two decent R-prints before the process entirely disappears, but then I think I'll be done with it.

    Anyone know where I can get a P-30 kit and some Ilfochrome paper?
    Try Adorama again. Calumet is another possibility. However, there will be no more P30. The new kits are called P 3.5, all liquid, and shipped as 5 litre kits. There is no change in time/temperature.
    The instructions include the proper mix for 1 litre at a time. I received my first P 3.5 kit from my local supplier today.

    Ed

  4. #64
    Marco Gilardetti's Avatar
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    Ed, however it is, these are good news indeed.

    By how many different liquids is the kit composed? Just three? Which quantity of liquid does each contain? See, I may want to start keeping the old small bottles to fraction the liquids, rather than leaving the new bottles half-empty.

    And what about the papers? Did you see some *NEW* Ilfochrome on the shelves, perhaps?
    I know a chap who does excellent portraits. The chap is a camera.
    (Tristan Tzara, 1922)

  5. #65
    EdM
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    Ilfochrome P3.5 - 5 Litre Kits

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco Gilardetti
    Ed, however it is, these are good news indeed.

    By how many different liquids is the kit composed? Just three? Which quantity of liquid does each contain? See, I may want to start keeping the old small bottles to fraction the liquids, rather than leaving the new bottles half-empty.

    And what about the papers? Did you see some *NEW* Ilfochrome on the shelves, perhaps?
    Three liquids, broken down into Developer A,B,C; Bleach A,B,C; Fixer is one solution. Packaged as Developer A, 1.5 L; Developer B, C, 500ml. Bleach A,B,C, each 500 ml. Fixer 2 L. Times/temperatures are as before. They have only listed 75 and 86 degrees for some years, but I have found that the old time charts from the '80s and early '90s work as well as ever.

    An e-mail from Ilford Tech Support some weeks ago assured me that the new P3.5 liquid chemistry will produce the same results with the same treatment as the P30.

    B&H lists most paper as Special Order, particularly the huge rolls. They do have the 11x14-50 in stock (I use that most); some others are also in stock.
    My local supplier is a processing center, so the don't carry stock for the general public.

    Regards,
    Ed

  6. #66

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    I wonder if the packaging/volumes will the same on both sides of the pond though.

  7. #67
    EdM
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    P3.5 Packaging

    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne
    I wonder if the packaging/volumes will the same on both sides of the pond though.
    I can't answer that except to say the 1.5 litre stock container is marked "for Australia" <grin>. I assume it will work in Indiana.

    I believe the P30 2 litre kits were the same anywhere...?

    Regards,
    Ed

  8. #68

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    There used to be a kit available only overseas (ie not in the US), I cant remember the specifics but it wasnt available here-was it a 1 liter or 3 liter kit perhaps? The only thing we've had available (other than P3) in the US in recent decades is the 2 liter, so someone on the other side of the puddle should know the answer.

  9. #69
    EdM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne
    I'd be interested to know if you have any real success with this, I tried numerous divided developers a few years ago and had very little luck lowering the contrast. I contacted someone who had used the same formulas successfully to lower contrast in the past, and he claimed the emulsion changed a few years ago and it no longer works. That was my experience, and I finally gave up trying.
    Back in the early 1980's I tried Dektol as a Cibachrome developer. IIRC, it worked, but produced a rather flat image. Do not, repeat, do not rely on this experience. I neither took notes nor kept the prints - that was 25 years ago.

    Regards,
    Ed

  10. #70

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    Hopefully you threw some thiosulfate in there too

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