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  1. #21
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I do E-6 with the Tetenal 3-bath kit and it is cheaper than the lab, as long as I save up enough rolls to make a batch of sufficient size. I used to do C-41, and would say the same is true.

    If you're not doing enough volume to make it worthwhile, try A&I mailers from www.aandi.com or B&H. If you order from A&I, you don't have to worry about B&H's minimum shipping cost, but if you order other things from B&H anyway, it may be more economical to get them from B&H.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  2. #22
    Gustavo_Castilla's Avatar
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    well if some one here can procces the film for 5.00 per roll with no scratches and quality I am in for it I will give you my bussines not much but it all helps
    Gustavo Castilla
    We are not moved by things ,
    but by the views we take of them.
    Epictitus.
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  3. #23
    thedarkroomstudios's Avatar
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    "Ferndale Color Labs: Home of the 50 Cent C-41 and the Artistic OTOH's" Send in your 8-batch of film today and they'll even throw in a FREE THUMBPRINT on your most important frame. lol

  4. #24

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    The article is posted in the "How To" section as Dignan NCF Divided Developer.

    Anyone want to split the cost of a pound of CD4 and some potassiun carbonate with me? Well, dammit all speak up. I am deaf.
    Last edited by Claire Senft; 07-13-2005 at 07:22 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  5. #25
    jd callow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedarkroomstudios
    "Ferndale Color Labs: Home of the 50 Cent C-41 and the Artistic OTOH's" Send in your 8-batch of film today and they'll even throw in a FREE THUMBPRINT on your most important frame. lol
    HEHEHE
    My beard sheds as well, but hell if you don't have a hair on your best exposure you aren't feeling the pain of photography

    *

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Claire Senft
    The article is posted in the "How To" section as Dignan NCF Divided Developer.
    Thanks; I've saved a bookmark and will probably refer to it when I get around to trying out color development. I may even see if I can buy a back issue of the original magazine.

  7. #27
    Calamity Jane's Avatar
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    I have been doing E-6 for almost 25 years with nothing more sophisticated than a sink full of water (at the right temp) and ordinary B&W developing drums/tanks. I used to use a Beseler E-6 developer. When it became extinct, I switched to "Agfa Process 44".

    I find that the extremely tight temp requirements are more "C.Y.A." frorm the manufacturer. I have had temperature deteriorate 5 degrees F between the start of the process and the last bath with no detectable difference on the slides. (Manitoba winters are COLD; sometimes keeping something at 100F would require military flame throwers!)

    I am now working in 4x5 using a Combi-Plan tank which requires 1.0L of solution so I work with a double batch of (500mL) Agfa chems. A double batch costs about $36 (Canadian). I usually save up my transparency films until I have enough to justfy mixing chemicals and I have yet to exhaust a set of chemistry. Agfa claim .45 square Meters per batch but I have run beyond that with no problem. I have also pushed the shelf life to nearly double with good results.

    I am sure, if you were running a professional lab, staying within the manufacturer's recommendations is wise. If you are a hobbiest and the pictures are non-critical, so is the process ;-)

  8. #28

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    If Manitoba winters are cold Calamity Jane maybe you should winter in Deadwood S.D. This might not be too large of a help temperture but you could make sure that the path to WBH's grave is kept open.

    I was born on a farm in Wisconsin. The local mules would not stand still for skinning. What has been your experience in Manitoba? When are they going to rename it Womanitoba ?
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  9. #29

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    That's why I have an insulated water bath. Turn it on 1.5 hours later it's at temp. From that point on it barely runs. Even with it turned off it holds temp fairly well. I've turned it off at 98F and the next day it's still over 90F. This isn't outdoors during the winter but in a 60F basement. The other thing I know I could improve things. Right now the lid can't even close with the wires in the way. If I really wanted to improve things drill a few holes route the wires and fill the holes in with silicone. The thing would hold temp even better.

    OTOH once you get past the critical step [developer with C-41, 2nd developer with E-6??] the temp range is much wider. More then 5F I think.

  10. #30
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calamity Jane
    I have been doing E-6 for almost 25 years with nothing more sophisticated than a sink full of water ...
    I find that the extremely tight temp requirements are more "C.Y.A." frorm the manufacturer. I have had temperature deteriorate 5 degrees F between the start of the process and the last bath with no detectable difference on the slides.
    I have had the same experience with C41 processing, as well. A couple of times I have failed to reset the JOBO Processor to 38 degrees C after printing at 35 degrees C ( - 5.0 degrees F below where it should be) - and I couldn't see any great difference either .. certainly no more than "lot-to-lot" normal variations.

    I seriously think that the CYA label is appropriate - The manufacturers have a safety net; in case something DOES go wrong - they can always blame "temperature instability" and shift the responsiblity to the consumer.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

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