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  1. #1
    htmlguru4242's Avatar
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    Reccomendation for E-6 processing Chemicals

    I have recently obtained about 50 sheets of E-6 sheet film (Ektachrome e100 and Provia III), along with two 120 rolls of ektachrome, and I'm quite eager to shoot it and process it before it expires in August '06

    I have NEVER processed color before, so I'm looking for a reccomendation for an E-6 developing kit (or individual components, if more economical / significantly better). I'm not looking to spend a terrible amount (like <$50) on the chems.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Dave Parker's Avatar
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    You can get the Kodak 7 step process for about $70 US, this is what I use when processing my E6, are you using a roller processing machine?

    Dave

  3. #3
    htmlguru4242's Avatar
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    I do not have a roller processor, though I can access one [not convenient]. I have manual tanks for 135, 120 and sheet film, and, of course, trays. I'm aware that this is probably not optimal (or good) for color development, but is there a way to make it work?

  4. #4
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    The Tetenal 3 step works very well for me. I use it in a Jobo and follow the directions exactly. I think you can get a 1 liter kit as well as the 5 and 15 liter kits. 1 liter developes 12 rolls of film if you reuse the chemicals - I do without a problem.

  5. #5
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by htmlguru4242
    I do not have a roller processor, though I can access one [not convenient]. I have manual tanks for 135, 120 and sheet film, and, of course, trays. I'm aware that this is probably not optimal (or good) for color development, but is there a way to make it work?
    Years ago I did E6 this way with the Kodak Hobby kit and it worked fine. Just setup a large tray for a tempering bath and keep your tank and all chemicals in this. You can just leave a thermometer in it and add extra hot water as needed to maintain temperature.

  6. #6
    htmlguru4242's Avatar
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    The tembering bath is a good idea - and a good use for the darkroom sink. Maintaining 38ºc shouldn't be too hard.

    The three bath kits are just developer, color dev. and blix, bypassing the bleach / reverse step, yes?

  7. #7
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I've used 4x5 tanks with SS hangers, drums, deep tanks with film clips, and just about every combination in between. I've used hand agitation, rotating drums, and nitrogen burst. I have even done it in a tray but not E6 and not at 100 deg F. That is one thing I would not try to do.

    As long as you adhere to the time, temperature and agitation recommendations of the manufacturer for the method you choose, you probably won't go wrong.

    I must point out a few things. Best results are usually obtained with either Kodak, Fuji or Agfa chemistry. All others appear to have some deficiency or other AFAIK. Another is that E6 processes with a blix instead of a bleach then fix tend to allow more silver retention causing problems in highlights.

    PE

  8. #8
    htmlguru4242's Avatar
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    THe kodak 6-bath kit makes 5 liters and is only $50 US, though B&H won't ship it ... That probably seems like my best bet.

    I also didn't think that tray processing E-6 at 100ºF wasa good idea - especially in complete darkness ...

    I'll see waht I can do

  9. #9

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    FWIW, I've used a Paterson Chrome 6 kit for three 35mm rolls now. The first two rolls came out fine. The third roll had magenta shadows (including the sprocket and inter-frame areas). The troubleshooting guide says this is a sign of contamination of the first developer with the color developer. I can't rule this out, although I thought I was being careful to avoid this. That's the extent of my experience to date, though. FWIW, I bought the Paterson kit because I was buying from B&H, and they would ship it, but they wouldn't ship other E6 kits. I believe Freestyle, Adorama, and perhaps others are more willing to ship other E6 kits, albeit only by ground.

  10. #10
    htmlguru4242's Avatar
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    It is odd that B&H won't ship some things, though I have noticed others will. I never air ship anything anyway, as it is too expensive, and I typically don't need htings next-day.

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