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  1. #21
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    Donald;

    Having no stabilizer is either bad or good. Bad if you have older films than the current Portra films and ok or good if you have Portra films. The couplers changed and the most recent ones don't need the same type of stabilizer, they use a new stabilzer.

    PE

  2. #22
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    PE, does this mean that when I develop Portra films, I don't need to do the stabiliser bath?

    As I sometimes develop Kodak and Fuji C41 in the same bath I would then use a stabiliser bath anyway, but if I'm only doing Portra it would appear that the stabiliser isn't required.

    Or, is it a combination of the new films being manufactured differently along with the newer C41 processes having the stabiliser inserted in another solution(s)?

    Mick.

  3. #23

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    The new Fuji films have the same requirements has the new Kodak films.

    What stabilizer are you using? If it's a new one from Kodak or fuji I think it's basically just a final rinse. No formaldehyde.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Qualls
    And it makes perfect sense that it's cheaper to get the components separately, but I'm don't want to spend $150

    Check the list of chemicals I put up in one of the messages. Assuming I didn't screw up the list then the total cost was $58 for everything before shipping. That's less then the 1 gallon Arista kit I think. From that point on it'll be even cheaper. If you can find it locally then no shipping. One issue is the 5 gallon fix I included in the list is only sold by B&H in full boxes of four bottles. But other sellers might be more flexible. The 1 gallon jug is only a couple of dollars cheaper IIRC. You can use the same fix for basically everything.

    I'd suggest picking the smaller size developer and the bigger size bleach and fix. You're unlikely to have anything go bad that way but you'll save money.

  5. #25

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    Gorup buy comes to mind then you can split the boxes.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick Fagan
    PE, does this mean that when I develop Portra films, I don't need to do the stabiliser bath?

    As I sometimes develop Kodak and Fuji C41 in the same bath I would then use a stabiliser bath anyway, but if I'm only doing Portra it would appear that the stabiliser isn't required.

    Or, is it a combination of the new films being manufactured differently along with the newer C41 processes having the stabiliser inserted in another solution(s)?

    Mick.
    Mick;

    I'm sorry but you really have to use the stabilzer designed for the specific film. At this point, I believe that EK and Fuji have diverged somewhat in stabilzer formulation and that EK is using a proprietary stabilzer.

    This is particularly true of E6 chemistry where the pre-bleach contains some of the stabilzing chemistry.

    There are comments on the respective manufacturers web pages, so I refer you to them for full information. There is also a recent post regarding this on PN. Dan Sapper, a product engineer at EK has answered some of this in detail and I don't wish to just cut and paste his comments out of the context of the entire thread over there.

    PE

  7. #27

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    PE could you point us to the thread? The only one I found was one claiming only Kodak final rinse was formaldehyde free. Which kind of conflicts with Fuji's claims.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by srs5694
    For E-6, so far I've only used the Paterson Chrome-6 kit, which comes as six bottles that are mixed into four components (1st developer, color/2nd developer, blix, and stabilizer). The instructions say each component can be re-used up to three times for 35mm. I've gotten good results from the first roll, but the two second rolls I've done have been dark. The one third roll I've done had some ugly color shifts. I'm not sure if the re-use per se is the problem or the storage for a few days after mixing before doing the subsequent rolls. I notice that Adorama lists a Kodak E-6 kit that's specified for one-shot use, so I may give that a try.
    PM coming your way

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    PE could you point us to the thread? The only one I found was one claiming only Kodak final rinse was formaldehyde free. Which kind of conflicts with Fuji's claims.
    Please read Dan Sapper's post regarding dye stability of the pre-bleach.

    This would imply that dye stability would suffer in any process for Kodak film that didn't use their pre-bleach. IDK.

    http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetc...id=00FS2o&tag=

    PE

  10. #30

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    http://www.fujihuntusa.com/html/pro_e6.asp

    Scroll down to the bottom

    "Designed for processing all color reversal films compatible with process E-6. This final rinse is formaldehyde free and must be used with PRO6 Conditioner Plus to achieve proper dye stabilization."


    I guess the two make a matched set. The conditioner and the final rinse. Kodak calls it pre-bleach. I don't know if they are different. But it seems either can be used with any film. If you stick to Fuji conditioner and final rinse. Or Kodak pre-bleach and final. No?

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