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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Petzi
    Yeah and don't ever put your finger in the bleach, you will hear a "poof", the flesh will be eaten away and only the bone will remain.
    No Joke, it is the only photo chemical I've used that hurts if you don't wipe it off... Also, if you stir it up into the air it will take your breathe away, it is not friendly. However, if you take care in how and where you handle the chemicals it can be safe.

    Corey

  2. #22

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    Thanks guys for sharing this.
    I don't want to be a fool and damage my health in any way.
    Game

  3. #23

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    I can by the way buy it from my deliverer, but it takes 4 weeks to arrive.... And the prices, Damn.
    190 dollar for 5 liltre. That's extreme.

    Sam

  4. #24
    Petzi's Avatar
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    Ilfochrome is not cheap, never has been. But the results are special. You have to see it, maybe you like it. You can make some spectacular prints with it.

  5. #25
    davetravis's Avatar
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    Game,
    Don't pull the trigger too quickly...
    I print Ilfochromes full-time for a living.
    Processors: Any of the Jobo drum systems will work.
    CAP40S, ICP42 are available on Ebay, and are getting cheaper by the minute.
    Start with the P3.5 chemistry and CPS1K polyester paper, a perfect fit right out of the box!
    The smells are noxious, but not toxic. Get fresh air into the room, or install a flow-through exhaust.
    Start with the suggested filter pack, and plan on doing some burning/dodging, unless you make the contrast masks, I've never needed those.
    Check out Cafe Ilfopro at: Http://www.ilford.com/html/us_englis...um/default.asp
    Good luck, and enjoy!
    Long live Ciba!!!

  6. #26

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    Thanks for that post! Still waiting for a reply from the manufacturer of my machine regarding my machine and cibachrome. I know ciba-machines are going away for a steal right now. but I have limited space, and no money, and no transport, and don't feel like aquiring more stuff anymore. That's simply not going to happen.
    Best regards Sam

  7. #27
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I make prints from slides either of 2 ways.

    I make internegatives from the slides using Portra VC film with a slight pull to the process as suggested by EK or I cross process Endura paper to get direct positives from the slides.

    The latter can only be done with high quality slides due to the high contrast of the Endura when cross processed, but with care and use of some contrast control methods, very good results can be obtained. Several examples are posted on Photo Net by Bujor B.

    Here is a process cycle at 68 deg F:

    Dektol 1:2 or 1:3 2'
    2% stop bath 30" (lights can go on at the end of this step)
    Wash 1' (reversal expose front and back of print)
    RA-RT color dev 2' (add up to 2 g/l sodium sulfite to reduce contrast)
    RA blix 3'
    Wash 20' (depends on temp, as you can go as high as about 80F)

    Be careful adding the sulfite, as you can reduce the contrast very quickly and get reddish blacks. Start out with just 0.5 g/l and work up to the desired result. Also, the paper is slower and needs a bit more red filtration to fix up the color.

    PE

  8. #28
    Samuel B's Avatar
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    I used to make Illfochome prints with a very basic setup consisting of a print drum and a bucket of water for tempering the solutions. It's not a difficult process at all. In fact a lab I worked in back in the '80's did Illfochome processing this way, my boss would do the printing and then I was the lucky one that got to do the drum processing! We did a surprising number of prints this way, and the consistency was very good considering the technique. The smell can be pretty strong, and of course it is very expensive, but the results can be worth it.

  9. #29
    Marco Gilardetti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by game
    I can by the way buy it from my deliverer, but it takes 4 weeks to arrive.... And the prices, Damn.
    190 dollar for 5 liltre. That's extreme.

    Sam
    Sam, when I used to use Ilfochrome materials (I hope they'll be available again here sooner or later, though I'm a bit skeptic at this point) I had to forget B&W thinking - like mixing up fresh developer for a shot or two or a proofsheet. To make things somewhat cheap, all stuff shall be used up to exhaustion in a calculated manner.

    I usually piled up slides for months until I had at least 30 to be printed. Only then I mixed the chemicals and started printing all day long and overnight (again: colour chemicals are not B&W and don't last long after having been diluted).

    If you proceed as such, you'll find out that the cost for each print is 1/2 - 1/3 of what you would have paid at the laboratory (or so it was in Italy when cibachromes were still available). Not even to mention overall quality and composition.
    I know a chap who does excellent portraits. The chap is a camera.
    (Tristan Tzara, 1922)

  10. #30

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    actually that is how I always work...
    I get the negatives from the lab including a contact sheet. I make pictures for a half year long, and then I decide what should be printed, and I take a few days to do that.
    Still waiting for my manufacterer to anwer the ciba question.
    Anyway, I also want to check fujiflex in comparison to cibachrome...
    I have seen fujiflex or ilfoflex prints taht were very very nice.

    Does anyone here knows a international online store that delivers fujiflex in sheets to europe?
    Bets regards Sam

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