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  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    For safelight, use the Wratten 13 or equivalent, with about a 10 watt bulb at about 4 feet minimum. This should be indirect light facing away from any paper area such as your easel or cutting board.

    This will probably not fog your paper, but I suggest you run a test first. The new color papers have increased green speed and may fog just a little easier now than before with the earlier Endura and Supra III.

    PE

  2. #12
    davetravis's Avatar
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    Yes I have an easel I guess I just need more practice working without a safelight, I am led to believe that colour film is too sensitive to use on.

    Congrats on your first time!!!
    Practice, practice, practice loading that paper!
    Save this first print, use the back, or some construction board to project onto while cropping and focusing.
    I use a Ganz Speed Easel for each size, and get great stability and perfect borders.
    Good luck.
    Long live Ciba!!!

  3. #13
    digiconvert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davetravis
    Congrats on your first time!!!
    Thank you, it feels GOOD

    Quote Originally Posted by davetravis
    Save this first print, use the back, or some construction board to project onto while cropping and focusing.
    Good luck.
    Long live Ciba!!!
    It's being kept no worries ! As to the idea of using a gash piece for focus cropping ....why didn't I think of that ? Brilliant ideas are usually simple. I feel confident that there will be a steady supply of discarded prints

  4. #14
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    I think my next attempt would be with 10cc less yellow, to 65M, 45Y, 00C - with 1/2 stop less exposure. One thing to remember is that as the density (intensity) of the color filtration decreases, the overall strength of the light reaching the paper increases, they are inextricably linked - which, without modification, would result in a more dense print. I would *guess* that 10cc yellow correction would too much ... but I tend to use the "Old Artillery Rule": Overcorrect and go from there.
    Once in a while, something reminds me of how conditioned my reflexes have become. I have to stop and think, now ... less yellow filtration - with negative material - will have the opposite effect on the print - less cyan.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  5. #15
    digiconvert's Avatar
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    I think I'm getting there !.. More advice please.

    Having tried the advice offerred I am now using 65M 50Y as the start point for printing on my Endura paper. The attached is my latest output;

    ImgFree.net - Hosting Images
    And I am quite pleased with the tones/exposure. (The bits are mainly from my scanner)
    Now ..further questions;
    -I assume that like mono work I discard the dev and keep the Blix, is that correct ? How long should the Blix last once diluted ?
    -I have looked at the options for processing other than in trays. The most cost effective seems to be a Jobo Roller base and a paper tank. Can this be used with Jobo bottles as with a CPE i.e pour the chem in by screwing a bottle on and inverting ? Anyone any advice on timings/technique with this ?
    -Anyone any suggestions as to a cost effective way of processing C-41 for a film a month ? I have heard a bowl of warm water is adequate-comments ?

    Thanks for all of the help so far

  6. #16
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    This picture, compared to the last picture you posted has moved more than 0.05Y, therefore something else is at work such as different lighting (obvious), different film or film process, or something in the paper process (obvious seeing the lack of development in the last posted pics). Therefore, it is hard to judge what is going on.

    This one needs a bit more magenta IMO (maybe a bit more red, as the skin tones are hard to judge), and less exposure with some dodging in the face and arm.

    You can keep the stop bath until it begins to lose its acidic odor (I use 2% acetic acid). It will turn bright pink. Ignore the color, it won't hurt.

    Blix, once mixed, will keep about 1 month, but when in use, I replenish with fresh by removing 100 ml for every 25 8x10 (approx) and replacing with 100 ml of unused blix to every liter of used. That way, I just mix a small amount after then initial batch and just keep using it.

    The developer is throw away after every use.

    My C41 developer, in a 1 gal kit keeps more than 1 month in a sealed bottle.

    PE

  7. #17

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    Congrats on you first colour print digi. Best bit of advise I was give was lock yourself away with 50 sheets of paper and don't come out till you have finished the lot.

    Personally I find colour more dificult than B&W because it is less tolerant hitting the sweet spot on the paper can be difficult so I admire anyone who attempts it.

    Enjoy.

  8. #18
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Uh... I don't know if I'd judge color balance from a scan transmitted over the internet lines... It all depends on your here and now "eye" perception of the print (or, better yet, color analyzer data). I, myself have gone through the "too green" gauntlet, seemingly without end, and the color balance seemed FINE on this end.. I posted the **same** (note **) to another "image accepting" site, and got a few "too magenta" critiques (magenta is the opposite of green)... so the net result is ... no concrete conclusion... not from an internet image, anyway.

    Seeing that the the scales of "cc" units vary from enlarger manufacturer to enlarger manufacturer... I wouldn't necessarily expect "5cc" of color modification in any given enlarging system to result in .05 gamma change in density of a color layer. Maybe .. maybe not. Experience is the only way to tell.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  9. #19
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    Ed;

    I understand what you say. I said what I did based on two things.

    One is that I assumed that the scanner and software from one person without manipulation would give some degree of constancy otherwise we could never view digital color images.

    The second was that a 0.05 density change is supposed to effect a 0.05 log E change in speed of a layer. I have heard all of the arguments you state, but having done actual sensitometry across dozens of color enlargers and cc filters, I have found that to be true if the filters have not faded appreciably.

    Having said that, I do agree with you, but going back to the original pictures the change appears 'wrong' to me. After having made, literally, thousands of prints per week, by hand, at one time or another, I have to rely on some sort of intuition to say something is wrong. Having done scans, and assuming no manipulation of the scan, I feel something is wrong between the first set and the second.

    The first set appeared blue or cyan to me, and the latest picture appears magenta or red to me but with a 0.05 yellow decrease. Since others viewing the first picture seemed to agree on the color balance and general filter change this latest picture puzzles me and I stated my comments above regarding possible reasons.

    PE

  10. #20
    ggriffi's Avatar
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    In the color class that I took we had a set of "color correction" filters that we used after getting exposure correct to help with said correction, I believe that I have seen these listed in a freestyle catalog.

    Freestyle


    g

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