I can see that the PM2 was design strictly for printing from color neg because it has a common Cyan dial (labeled Master). I can see it has 3 program banks. The main one with the knobs below and the 2 additional one on the right hand side with the selector switch just below them. The newer models all have separate Cyan knob.
The PM2A has 1 set of programming knobs but accept plug in module. It also has a coarse and fine adjustment knobs for each channel.
The PM2L lacks fine/coarse adjustment and does not accept plug in module and thus it only has 1 programming bank.
The PM2M has larger meter. The coarse adjustment knobs have click stop and it also accept plug in module. It also has fiber optic probe with cosine adjustment. Actually the fiber optic probe simply pipes light into an idential probe like other models.
I also have the PM4L which is identical to the PM2M but with a digital display and when in the white channel the readout displays exposure time in seconds.
Operation principle of all those are about the same.
@BruceN, Chan Tran: please send me a scan file to email@example.com. I just bought a dust and beseler pm2M analyzer. Hope them are same. Thank you very much!
I own and have used many color analyzers, including one called Chromega Pro something. I have the analyzers in boxes these days. Color analyzers are primarily for figuring out filtration for printing negatives. One practice that I tried to follow is to print an image as a standard. Then store the filtration analyzer CMYK values as a program in the analyzer. Typically skin tone of a person is the interesting point. So you store the analyzer CMYK values on a spot of the skin as a program. When you print another picture and you want to achieve a same skin tone you can set the sensor on the image spot of the skin with the analyzer set to the stored program. Then you adjust the M and Y filters (C is usually set to 0) of the color head of the enlarger and the aperture of the enlarger lens until the analyzer has the same CMYK values stored in the program. This is to adjust the filtration pack and aperture of the enlarger lens (with a fixed exposure time) until the analyzer's CMYK readings are nulled (0) on the meter of the analyzer. The program and the analyzer helps you to figure out the filtration and aperture so that when you expose to a same photo paper and process it the same way with same chemicals you will produce an exact identical skin tone on the spot you used to run the program.
This may sound not very complicated. But in reality it is not a trivial task. You may reproduce the identical skin tone for a tiny spot yet all remaining colors of the picture are still way off color balance. If your images always have a white, a black and a 18% gray spot hidden in them then the analyzer can help you figuring out the enlarger filtration and aperture in a minute, if not sooner. And you will always get a perfect print. In reality this is just impossible. Nevertheless it is a fun instrument to play with. It will depend on yourself how useful it may become to you. I have not used any of them for more than 10 years.
Simplified operating procedure for color analyzers
"I've got a Beseler PM2 color analyzer that's gathering dust because I don't know how to use it. "
OK Guys and Gals, here's how to make it work.
 Using a good negative with an image shot in daylight, make a good print as you would without the analyzer. Try to use an exposure time of 10 seconds.
 After you have dried and viewed your print and like it, go back to your enlarger. Using a difuser (wax paper under the lens will do), switch the probe to WHITE and adjust the WHITE knobs for CENTER NULL (it just happens to be 10 seconds exposure time also).
 Now you have two choices. AVERAGE INTERGRATION or CLEAR EDGE analysys.
[3a} Using AVERAGE method, hold the difuser under the lens, switch the probe to CYAN and adjust cyan knobs adjust to CENTER NULL. Then YELLOW, Then MAGENTA. Write down the settings so to return later if need be. EXAMPLE: C-F45 Y-G63 M-E84 W-D38. You are now programmed. The catch is this method is good for AVERAGE negatives with a good balance of colors. If you try to print a neg of a green house in a green pasture with a green fence, your print WILL be green as the analyzer is trying to AVERAGE the colors.
[3b] CLEAR EDGE analysis is different. It measures the BASE color of the negative itself. The images printed this way will print in the color that were taken in. Example, a noontime picture will print neutral while a late afternoon image will print the yellowish color of the sunlight. A flash exposure may print cool, but it depends on your flash unit. To do this, adjust the WHITE probe and knobs using the difuser. Now without using the difuser, move the negative slightly 'till you clear edge between frames is in the center of the easel. Put the probe there and set the probe for Cyan and adjust for CENTER NULL then switch to Yellow and Magenta. Note these readings and jot them down also. Now by analyzing the clear part of a negative, you can print the true color the film recorded easily.
Remeber, the analyzer is a tool to get you very close to ideal and will do this consistantly despite different film types. If your initial print is off color, a small change is 5 points on the filter pack and a large change is 10 points. The trick to color printing is to reproduce BLACK AND WHITE (GRAY).
There are other methods, but I like and use both of these. I have the PM2M and PM2L analyzers I purchased over 20 years ago and they work as well today as did when new.
If you still have that file, would you mind sending it to me? I am new here, but just received a PM2 today and no book.
Originally Posted by BruceN
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I posted my PM2L manual scan a while back. The analyzer is long gone, but I made a PDF of the manual for posterity!
PM2A Manual Request
I'm looking for a pdf of the Beseler PM2A manual. If anyone could email me a copy I'd appreciate it very much.
PM2A Manual Download
Like the frobozz, I posted my PM2A manual:
I hope that everyone enjoy...