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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Hicks View Post
    Dear Hany,

    Many (probably most) amateur labs stabilize, without a water wash. If negative archival importance is important, you may prefer a pro lab, dev only, with water wash.

    Personally, I regard a few years as adequate for most colour neg.

    Cheers,

    R.
    Are you still planning a unit on how to do your own archival washing for amateur lab processed negatives?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by 3Dfan View Post
    Are you still planning a unit on how to do your own archival washing for amateur lab processed negatives?
    Actually, I had quite forgotten. I'll think about it some more. I think it would be a good 'How Do I...' piece in the Photo School at www.rogerandfrances.com.

    Step one: get the negs back UNCUT and LOOSELY rolled (I give 'em neg bags for this). Trying to wash cut strips is more hassle than it's worth...

    Cheers,

    Roger

  3. #13
    marktompkins's Avatar
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    I will add taht Mpix sends back the negatives UNCUT and LOOSELY rolled in a sleeve, as Roger suggests.

  4. #14
    Will S's Avatar
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    The prices aren't too bad here. I use a fairly expensive "1 hour place" and they charge $3 for the roll and .35$ for each 4x6. So $8.25 plus tax. A roll of 36 35mm 4x6 is $10.68 with tax! I don't take much to them, but they are the best 35mm processor in town.

    Best,

    Will
    "I am an anarchist." - HCB
    "I wanna be anarchist." - JR

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Hicks View Post
    Actually, I had quite forgotten. I'll think about it some more. I think it would be a good 'How Do I...' piece in the Photo School at www.rogerandfrances.com.

    Step one: get the negs back UNCUT and LOOSELY rolled (I give 'em neg bags for this). Trying to wash cut strips is more hassle than it's worth...

    Cheers,

    Roger
    I agree that it would be a good 'How Do I...' piece. You have a pretty good website with a lot of helpful information.

    I'm a bit curious, would washing the film after getting it back from the lab also help preserve E-6 and/or kodachrome?

  6. #16

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    my local sams club does my 120 film inhouse for me. works great. i get it back in 20 min. costs me 1.58$. if i send it out it costs me $.51 and takes about a week to get it back! not too bad, and cheap enough.

    eddie

  7. #17

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    My nearest pro lab (BWC in Dallas) develops C41 120 and 35mm for under $3, Costco will give me 35mm dev+prints for $4 (they'll also cross-process on the odd chance I want to).

    I haven't looked at Sam's or Wal-Mart yet, but I'm willing to suspend my ethics temporarily for $5 Super8 processing if I happen upon a good, cheap rig for that.

  8. #18

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    Different country and all, but for processing only, I go to KMart. They do processing only for $2.50 (the pro lab I visit charges closer to $7 for processing only), uncut.
    I prefer this, because when I get prints, I get my negatives scratched to hell and back. Then I can scan the negs myself (a quick batch scan on the flatbed gives a good enough idea) to see how they look, then either scan in on the dedicated film scanner, or take to my usual pro lab for an enlargeent.

  9. #19
    winger's Avatar
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    In Marlboro, MA, I pay $8.00 a roll for develop only 120 (I've been using XP2 lately, too). 35mm is maybe $6.00? I use a mom&pop type place, so others may be cheaper. They can develop, but not print, 120.

  10. #20

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    stabilizer is an integral step in color proscessing, it helps to maintain the dyecloud's permenance.


    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Hicks View Post
    Dear Hany,

    Many (probably most) amateur labs stabilize, without a water wash. If negative archival importance is important, you may prefer a pro lab, dev only, with water wash.

    Personally, I regard a few years as adequate for most colour neg.

    Cheers,

    R.

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