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  1. #1

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    Tetenal Limited Colortec© C-41 Negative Kit Rapid 2 Bath

    I am looking to buy small quantities of C41 chemicals in the UK.
    Paterson appear not to produce it now.
    Nova kits seem ideal except the shelf life for one litre which will process a dozen films is only 14 days and I don't do 6 films a week - anything from none to 4 a week is typical.
    Other kits , such as Speediebrews , are not suitable for normal processing.
    The Tetenal product in the title bar seems readily available. So the question is has anybody used it, is it suitable for low throughput amateur use and what are your views in general.
    Thanks
    Jeff

    PS I use MF so using minilabs is not an option and pro labs are too expensive.

  2. #2

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    A lot of minilabs can do 120 actually, at least develop it. A 2 bath kit is probably a kind of stupid idea as c-41 was designed with a set number of steps, a seperate bleach and fix ect.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob100684 View Post
    A lot of minilabs can do 120 actually, at least develop it. A 2 bath kit is probably a kind of stupid idea as c-41 was designed with a set number of steps, a seperate bleach and fix ect.
    Ah. When I have asked for 120 processing at minilabs I have got blank expressions except by a local pro who had a town centre retail shop and did dev. only but he has moved from the town centre and no longer does retail. I'll have another trawl around and see what turns up.
    But I would like to dev. myself having seen the cavalier way film is handled in some minilabs.
    Cheers
    Jeff

  4. #4

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    Recently I started developing color films for about the same reasons as you. I bought Tetenal C41 Negative kit too, and made only half liter of working solutions and sprayed Protectan over the rest of the concentrates. Up to now I have developed 6 films, two at a time. For the first two films I used the times given for the first 4 films in one liter (3'15" for developer, etc), for the second two films the times given for films 5-8, etc. The results are good and I think I'll be able to develop yet another pair of films. If it is good as well and the second half of the concentrates has the same performance, then the total number of films will be 16, which is very good.
    I put the working solutions in PET bottles, which can be pressed so that no air is left above the solution and the caps are very tight and do not let in any air even after weeks. I have developed those 6 films over the last 6 weeks and the working solutions still look good.

  5. #5

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    Another alternative is Amaloco K-54 2-bath kit for developing C-41 films. I've used it with good results, and it is even cheaper than Tetenal.

    I also don't shoot very often, (sometimes several rolls a week, sometimes not even a single picture for month) and store the shot rolls in the fridge in a tight ziplock bag until I have enough rolls (and time) to do the developing.

    As for getting the Amaloco kit, have a look at the webshop of FotoHuis (Robert Vonk, he is a member here too), the site can be found at www.fotohuisrovo.nl, there would not be a problem shipping to England (as he'll ship to the Czech Republic too), or contact him for information about a local distributor in UK.
    Jiri Vasina
    www.vasina.net

  6. #6
    AgX
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    Jeff,

    I have not used Tetenal's C-41 Rapid Kits up to now, but intend to do so the coming weeks. With 5L working solution you can process 60-80 type135 films. Tetenal advises up to three runs with the working solution. Shelf life for the working solution would be 2-4 weeks, for the opened concentrate up to 24 weeks.
    As you can make up working solution as you need it, you would have to discard in the worst case chemistry for 2 films.

    That Amaloco developer is not shown on their website, but produced by them for the German Phototec company who sells it as `Dilucolor´, but also shows up at Fotuhuisrovo as `K54 Mono-negacolor C-41´.
    The main difference would be that Amaloco no longer advises to use 30°C processing. Tetenal however states that as option.
    Last edited by AgX; 06-03-2007 at 02:57 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #7

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    This topic has come up several times here in the past. A few thoughts and comments, based mostly on readings of previous posts:

    • If you want to avoid a 2-bath kit (which uses blix rather than separate bleach and fix) but the only commercial options in your size range are of that variety, you could use the 2-bath kit's developer along with bleach and fix purchased separately. This will raise your cost (since you won't be using the blix), but possibly less so than throwing away huge quantities of developer. Bleach and fix are likely to last much longer than developer.
    • Some people have reported that they can obtain relatively small quantities of C-41 chemistry from minilab operators. Get friendly with a couple and see what you can arrange.
    • If you can find others in your area with similar needs, you may be able to order a bigger kit than any one of you would need and then split it between you.
    • Several mix-it-yourself formulas are available, which let you mix in the quantities you like. Obtaining raw chemicals may be a problem, particularly in the UK. I believe that JD Photochem (in Canada) ships internationally, but I've not looked into this in any detail.
    • C-41 chemicals (particularly the developer) that ship in multiple bottles for mixing at time of use are likely to last longer than single-bottle developers. The latter are more common with the hobbyist kits.
    • Some here (particularly Photo Engineer, whose knowledge far surpasses my own) are picky about color chemicals and claim that most mix-it-yourself and "hobby brand" chemicals are inferior to those from major manufacturers (Kodak and Fuji).


    Best of luck finding an adequate solution!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by srs5694 View Post
    This topic has come up several times here in the past. A few thoughts and comments, based mostly on readings of previous posts:

    • If you want to avoid a 2-bath kit (which uses blix rather than separate bleach and fix) but the only commercial options in your size range are of that variety, you could use the 2-bath kit's developer along with bleach and fix purchased separately. This will raise your cost (since you won't be using the blix), but possibly less so than throwing away huge quantities of developer. Bleach and fix are likely to last much longer than developer.
    • Some people have reported that they can obtain relatively small quantities of C-41 chemistry from minilab operators. Get friendly with a couple and see what you can arrange.
    • If you can find others in your area with similar needs, you may be able to order a bigger kit than any one of you would need and then split it between you.
    • Several mix-it-yourself formulas are available, which let you mix in the quantities you like. Obtaining raw chemicals may be a problem, particularly in the UK. I believe that JD Photochem (in Canada) ships internationally, but I've not looked into this in any detail.
    • C-41 chemicals (particularly the developer) that ship in multiple bottles for mixing at time of use are likely to last longer than single-bottle developers. The latter are more common with the hobbyist kits.
    • Some here (particularly Photo Engineer, whose knowledge far surpasses my own) are picky about color chemicals and claim that most mix-it-yourself and "hobby brand" chemicals are inferior to those from major manufacturers (Kodak and Fuji).


    Best of luck finding an adequate solution!
    Thanks for your thoughts.
    I am ploughing a lonely furow because I am the only member of my photo club who does colour developing and enlarging and there are only about 4 others who do B/W chemical processing. Not much chance to share buying power!
    I'll go with the Tetenal and assuming I get on well with it explore the use of seperate bleach, fix and stabilisor. I would guess that Fuji and Kodak products are the best available but I'm not sure I have the accuracy or ability to get the best out of them and in my very amateur situation I guess would not see the difference. I would guess that using seperate bleach and fix would be more archival.
    Cheers
    Jeff

  9. #9

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    I have used Patterson c41 chemicals and had good results but my advice is get yourself some pipettes and good grads and buy the Kodak chemicals that are the best and cheapest on the Market. You will need the pipettes to mix the small quantities needed for say 2 films in a Jobo tank. The B solution in Kodak flexicolor is the one that seems to be intolerant of oxidisation so split that in to filled small bottles from a chemist. You will be using a six bath kit with separate bleach and fix stages so your negatives will have excellent archival qualities Something that is debatable with the blix in lots of hobbyist kits. It is difficult to say what Kodak thinks is the minimum amount of chemical to use for each 35mm 36exp film or 120 roll but I use 150ml per film whereas I used only 100ml for the patterson and other small kits in the past. Photo Engineer I think once posted on another site that 100ml was good for Kodak in the old days and that nothing in the formula has changed but I have stuck to 150ml. The thing to remeber is that C41 is Kodak's patent and nobody does it better.

  10. #10
    AgX
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    I also thought about using seperate bleach and fix solutions. But it is not easy to obtain them in small amounts. Typically you get them in replenishing sets. Staying at that 2-bath kits would mean keeping things simple in terms of logistics.
    As far as I remember PE did not state brands concerning his comments on blixes.

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