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  1. #1

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    Dry to liquid conversion of Sodium Hydroxide for E6

    I have an E6 kit I need to add 1.5 ML of Sodium Hydroxide to the Color Developer, but I have anhydrous (dry) chemistry.

    I searched Anchell's Cook Book but found nothing helpful on this; how do I convert dry chemistry to liquid? Do I put 1.5 miligrams of SH in 1.5 ml of water?

    As you can tell, I am only a recipe follower, not a chemist...

  2. #2

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    Never mind, I found elsewhere on the net that 5N NaOH is what is used to raise the PH in E6 and that can be made by SLOWLY adding 200g of Sodium Hydroxide to a liter of cold water (or like parts to like parts).

    Time to get out the heavy rubber gloves and a face shield...

  3. #3
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    How do you know you have to raise the pH?

    The kit should already be at the proper value? Are you trying something special with the process to get a color shift?

    PE

  4. #4

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    The processed slides are heavily biased toward blue and all the information I find on the Internet, points toward.... 1. dilution of reversal bath to 60% strength or 2. raise the PH by adding 1.5ml of 5N NaOH 3. both.

    I plan on modifying the chemistry in that order.

    Here is my reference: http://www.rosspro.biz/support/faq_wl.html

    It IS a Wing Lynch Kit and the so-called additional instructions mentioned were no where to be found when I processed the first few rolls.

    I have seen where some speculate that the WL kits are rebranded Kodak chems, but I cannot be sure of that...

  5. #5
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    Kodak does not make a powder E6 kit at all, so it is not rebranded.

    Are the blacks black? Is the film black at the edges or is it blue there as well. If it is blue in the edges, it may be bad film or bad processing.

    If the edges are black but the images are biased blue, then the fix you have should help.

    PE

  6. #6
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    Wing Lynch

    [/QUOTE]I have seen where some speculate that the WL kits are rebranded Kodak chems, but I cannot be sure of that...[/QUOTE]

    Kino,

    For the many years I ran a Wing Lynch (B/W, E6), I used the Kodak 'kits' for the E6 line and various developers as required for the B/W films

    I cannot recall ever having any colour imbalance using E6 as per insrutuctions for any of the 4x5, 120 and 35mm Kodak colour films that went through that machine. We had to invest in the Wing Lynch after it was decided that my time was better spent making the photographs rather than standing in the darkroom watching a clock for too many hours every other day.

    Ken
    Quando omni flunkus moritati (R. Green)

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Kodak does not make a powder E6 kit at all, so it is not rebranded.

    Are the blacks black? Is the film black at the edges or is it blue there as well. If it is blue in the edges, it may be bad film or bad processing.

    If the edges are black but the images are biased blue, then the fix you have should help.

    PE
    PE,

    The kit is liquid, 6 step. The "fix" was posted on the link I gave.

    I see no true blacks over a strong light source; only a very deep purple in what appears to be a black and the shadows are mainly biased blue.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails E6016.jpg   E6018.jpg  
    Last edited by Kino; 07-14-2007 at 01:21 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: image

  8. #8
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    Actually, that second one appears pretty good. The leaves look autumnal and the branches are black. The sky is blue. The first one is kinda hard to tell. But the scanning process may have altered things. The edges do appear black in the scan.

    The neutral balance should be neutral up into the black. If it is not, then it is either film or process. The edges should be neutral black and dense (about 3.0 for R/G/B).

    I misunderstood the 'powder' comment. Sorry.

    Fuji does recommend a different time in the first developer than Kodak does for their respective films. This depends on the processing equipment.

    I guess you will have to use those 'fixes'.

    Good luck.

    PE

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Actually, that second one appears pretty good. The leaves look autumnal and the branches are black. The sky is blue. The first one is kinda hard to tell. But the scanning process may have altered things. The edges do appear black in the scan.

    The neutral balance should be neutral up into the black. If it is not, then it is either film or process. The edges should be neutral black and dense (about 3.0 for R/G/B).

    I misunderstood the 'powder' comment. Sorry.

    Fuji does recommend a different time in the first developer than Kodak does for their respective films. This depends on the processing equipment.

    I guess you will have to use those 'fixes'.

    Good luck.

    PE
    PE,

    No problem on the "powder" thing; I didn't write that too clearly...

    Yes, the #$%^%$ scan is not really indicative of what it looks like and I cannot manipulate it to make it actually represent what it looks like to the naked eye over a light box!

    The edges look good and black and near the 3.0d you speak of, but the framelines are very deep purple.

    Oh well, I'll try the fixes and see what happens...

  10. #10

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    OK, here is what I got.

    Looks better but....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails E6019.jpg  

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