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  1. #11

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    Get a used in-tank heater/agitator on eBay -- Essentially an oversized aquarium heater. That's what I did when the heater element in my Jobo ATL-3 went tits-up.

    Search the Business & Industrial section of eBay for "water bath"

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    At lower temperatures, even with longer times, the cyan layer tends to be underdeveloped or the yellow layer tends to be overdeveloped, or both.

    This leads to crossover and color problems. I have tried to compensate and fix the problem, but it is there nonetheless and is caused by diffusion. And, since each color film has a different thickness, this can vary from film to film. The color films were all balanced for 100F in the 'real' C-41 process.

    PE
    Thanks for the info.
    That's what I thought might be the case.
    Cheers
    Jeff

  3. #13

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    Thanks everyone.
    Right now I'll go for the simple option of water bath at about 104f but investigate other suggestions in the next few days.
    Cheers
    Jeff

  4. #14

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    The heaters from Aquatic Nature can be set to a temperature between 11°C and 39°C with an accuracy of +/1°C. At least ackording to themselves.
    http://www.aquatic-nature.be/2eng_mp-heater.html
    /Markus

  5. #15

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    If you're looking on industrial temperature controllers you can see a wide range of possibilities.
    But these type of controllers are not cheap anymore. As thermo sensor in most cases you can use a PT100 which can be very accurate.

    When using two aquarium heaters you can build at least the same specs Jobo is doing but working with heaters in a water bath needs knowledge of electronics and electrical safety because the combination can be very dangerous.

    Picking up a TBE-2 will bring you within the C41 specification and the Amaloco K50/K54 kit has even some wider tolerance. (+0,5 -/- 1). For blix and stabilisation you need at least 35 degrees C. Going real down in temperature with the C41 developer will cause color shift like PE has explained.

    The trick is to keep the heating element and PT sensor free of carbonates because otherwise they will end in overheating just like your home wash machinery. For these water baths there is anti-bacteria chemical available also to prevent damage on the heating element which is based on phosphoric acid.

  6. #16

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    How to warm up to 38°C

    Hello everyone,

    Jeff and Mr Poutnik,

    Just to share my experience and some thoughts :

    I am just fully in the problem, because I would try E6 process in the next days, and following friend's advices, don't want to rely on my old CPA thermostat to keep water at 38°C (100°F for whose who are fond of imperial units )

    I was unable, too, to find an heater with settings higher than 32°C. Then I dissociate the problem, and first search a "universal thermostat", which is able to switch on or off an external (sector powered) heating element, according to a precise setting. It's look like an industrial process controler, but as noted above, they are not precisely cheap, even on Ebay.

    It was hard to find, but I managed it, and find an Ebay shop in Germany who sell a such thing, with an external term probe, and setting from 0°C to 100°C ! The price is not quite cheap, but reasonable to me (about €35.00), given the services done.

    I don't know if it's OK to post here a link directly to the shop (and I think that some other shops sell the same device), but I can do it if someone asks, on this thread, or in a private mail.

    CAVEAT : I haven't tried it yet, so I don't know if the gizmo is working well and is precise above all.

    My problem is now about... finding a simple dumb heating element, which I can plug in the Universal Thermostat. There is several options then :

    - Canibalize a new thermostated fish tank heater, with trying to by-pass the built-in thermostat switch.

    - Use an heating element from a washing machine or something, and tinkering it.

    The first two options are a little risky, it is better to keep water and power lines well separated

    - Try to find an heating element which is not too expensive, an old dumb fish tank heater that it's not totally destroyed at a garage sale, for example.
    I am thinking too about an heating element for a PCB etching machine, which is designed to use an external thermostat, and can be found in hobby electronic part shops, at various price.

    Any comments or advice welcomed, of course.

    Best regards,

    Raphael

  7. #17

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    Nova sells replacement heaters. Or did last time I checked.
    Free Photography Information on My Website
    http://www.rogerandfrances.com

  8. #18

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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Hicks View Post
    Nova sells replacement heaters. Or did last time I checked.
    They sell heaters for £40 plus P&P. Took patience but eventually their web site came up with the info.

    Cheers

    Jeff

  9. #19

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    I confirm this: it's impossible to find an aquarium heater that is capable to mantain 38°C at a reasonable price.

  10. #20

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    Hello all,

    Quote Originally Posted by Alessandro Serrao View Post
    I confirm this: it's impossible to find an aquarium heater that is capable to mantain 38°C at a reasonable price.
    Of course, because I think 38°C will be deadly for almost any fish species :-)
    But you can use a separate thermostat to control a simple (non-thermostated) water heater.

    Here is a link (for a iron perchloride heater) :
    http://www.newlongtain.com/shop/prod...5ed8f2636e679e

    It's to everyone to see if the added costs of separate thermostat + heater (total about €50,00) stays in the "reasonable" price zone.

    Best regards,

    Raphael

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