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Tetenal C41 developer at 86f (30c in Europe)
The heating element (re used Nova unit) in the water bath I used to keep chemicals at 100f has broken and I can't find a replacement to keep the water at 100/102f. Tetenal give alternative times for chemicals at 86f and aquarium heaters can maintain that temp. so that seems a reasonable way to go. But are the results at 86f as good as 100f? Any observations from practical experience would be welcome please.
Thanks
Jeff
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At lower temperatures, even with longer times, the cyan layer tends to be underdeveloped or the yellow layer tends to be overdeveloped, or both.
This leads to crossover and color problems. I have tried to compensate and fix the problem, but it is there nonetheless and is caused by diffusion. And, since each color film has a different thickness, this can vary from film to film. The color films were all balanced for 100F in the 'real' C-41 process.
PE
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Look around. You should be able to find an aquarium heater that maintains the right temp.
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Nick, I was unable to locate heaters that are calibrated above 31°C (both in stone shops and in online shops here in middle Europe), and believe me I have tried...
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Large tank of water = less temperature fluctuation. Just make sure the chemicals are at the right temperature before you start and they should stay warm long enough to get through the development process... or at least this is how I've been developing my own with the tetenal kit and no fancysmancy processor.
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Start at higher than 100F, say 104 and let the temperature drift downwards so that the average temperature over the 3.25 minutes development time is 100F. This will work quite well. Use an initial prewet at 100 F.
The bleach, fix, stab/final rinse and washes can be as low as 85 degrees as long as you increase the time and don't overly shock the film as to cause reticulation.
PE
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That is the way I do it. Start at around 40 or 39°C, keep the whole thing in a tub and let the temperature drop. It will end at around 37 or 36°C, and the results are very good (at least to my eyes) - I'll try to post a photo in my gallery (past date Fuji NPH 400 developed in Amaloco K-54 developer - it's a C-41 developer).
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 Originally Posted by chorleyjeff
The heating element (re used Nova unit) in the water bath I used to keep chemicals at 100f has broken and I can't find a replacement to keep the water at 100/102f. Tetenal give alternative times for chemicals at 86f and aquarium heaters can maintain that temp. so that seems a reasonable way to go. But are the results at 86f as good as 100f? Any observations from practical experience would be welcome please.
Thanks
Jeff
Jeff. Can't help with answers to lower temp and anyway others have done so but did you notice recently that Tim Rudman mentioned that he had a hardly used Nova which he was willing to dispose of for a reasonable offer?
He was inviting a PM from interested parties. Not posted in the for sale area so can;t say if it's now gone. Just a thought.
pentaxuser
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Originally Posted by poutnik
Nick, I was unable to locate heaters that are calibrated above 31°C (both in stone shops and in online shops here in middle Europe), and believe me I have tried...
It's not Europe
http://www.wonbrothers.com/product/heater/d58.htm
But that's rated to 40C. Plus
http://www.wonbrothers.com/product/heater/1000lcd.htm
I have an older smaller version like that one. It's not rated for 100F but it is adjustable. You're supposed to adjusted it so the dial reads accurately. I adjusted it so it runs a little warmer.
Unless the EU limits these things?
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Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
Look around. You should be able to find an aquarium heater that maintains the right temp.
Have tried internet searches and the max. sustained temp. I can find is 32c.
I suppose that if I had the know how I could rig up an immerasion heater and thermostat but water + electricity + me is a bit risky!
Cheers
Jeff
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