Just curious, how is it easier than B&W?
Originally Posted by Matt5791
4-amino-N-ethyl-N-(ß-methane-sulphonamidoethyl)-m-toluidine sesquisulphate monohydrate
I'm not 100% sure on the accuracy of what I have written, but I believe that the above are the two main colour developing agents used these days.
Colour printing is far easier to print than B&W because once you have the colour balance correct, you basically only have to get the density correct in various portions of the picture to get a quite pleasing thing.
I can do bucket loads of colour prints in a darkroom session, whereas in B&W I work far slower.
RA4 is called that, it means Rapid Access in 4 minutes. It is dry to dry in four minutes. So in four minutes you have a ready to evaluate colour print, compared to B&W fibre based paper where realistically you need to wait hours for air drying to occur to get a correct final evaluation. I force dry B&W fibre paper tests with a hair dryer, but my tests are only indicators of the final air dried print, close but not 100% the same.
I have always found good colour printing to be easier than good B&W printing.
But with B&W, you just need to get the density correct.
Originally Posted by Mick Fagan
I'd say that you're just more careful/picky about your B&W prints. It also could reflect a difference in subject matter you choose for B&W vs. color. I currently am working on a color print that I still need to do some dodging and burning to get it right.
Originally Posted by Mick Fagan
But this is just the difference between Fiber and RC paper - you could work just as quickly in B&W with RC paper. For example with PF130 developer:
Originally Posted by Mick Fagan
45 sec dev.
30 sec stop
1:00 min fix in TF4 rapid fixer
rinse and dry - can only get away with this with RC paper
I think the reason some people find colour printing "easier" is because a colour print is much more "right or wrong" - whereas monochrome is much more artistic - hence its continuing popularity many years after colour photography became mainstream.
When I started in colour I was suprised how it was easier than I was expecting to nail the filtration.
I pretty much nail a good colour print on the second enlargement from an unknown negative, these days
If working off a contact sheet I already have a reference for density adjustments and any obvious colour casts. I do contact sheets of all 35mm colour stuff but usually only one contact sheet of a 4x5 colour set of shots. I work exclusively in C41 process by the way.
Usually I see people who start out doing colour neg printing going ahead in leaps and bounds, then they flounder a bit with the odd quirky colour cast.
Eventually if they are persistent and take reasonable notes, one day there will be a switch go on inside their head and colour printing becomes relatively easy.
I would suggest that anyone doing colour use one brand of paper, film and chemicals until they feel comfortable doing colour. Then they can branch out and the sky is the limit.
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PE. This thread seems to have died a natural death. I appreciate that threads have lives and deaths of their own and take different twists and turns which can sometimes mean that some questions remain unanswered inadvertently.Is there any chance that you may be able to give answers to my questions? I hope that more than just me will benefit.
Originally Posted by pentaxuser
Sorry, I missed those posts.
CD4 was used to speed up development many years ago. Some manufacturers still use it to speed up processing and charge a premium price for the kit. The use of CD4 was touted years ago by Pat Dignan. I corresponded with him shortly before his death, and was discussing the image stability question with him at that time. He was considering abandoning the use of CD4 based on his subsequent tests of image stability.
Kodak paper now develops more rapidly and therefore CD4 gives no boost, but speedup kits are still sold at a premium price. IMHO, they are not needed due to the paper improvements. The RA-RT developer works just fine for me from 68 - 100 deg F (20 - 38.5 C).
PE. Wow that was quick. If we'd been in phone contact, it wouldn't have been much faster.
It's clear that Kodak papers because they are faster now work fine at RT without having to risk the dangers of CD4 developer. I would assume that Fuji papers in Kodak RT developer would work equally well although the proof of this needs to be from someone who uses Fuji paper in Kodak developer and better still someone else who uses RT developer other than Kodak at room temp. I think Tetenal give temps down to RT for their developer but maybe a Tetenal user will contribute.
Many thanks once again for the quick response
I have no recent experience with Fuji papers or developers. Sorry.
Kodak paper develops fully in 2 minutes at 68 deg F and in 1 minute or less at 100F. I use 45" to 1' myself.
Tetenal rapid developers with CD4 or any other change only does so at the cost of a premium price with no other benefit in my opinion.
Kodak achieved the RA process by a redesign of the emulsions to speed development rate and bring it more in line with B&W papers. It used to be that the cyan developed first, then magenta and then yellow due to diffusion effects and grain size and type. Most of that has been solved with the new, high chloride emulsions.
BTW, these emulsions appear to go to completion and do not easily go into fog or change color balance very much with errors in processing. There is a slight shift in color balance from 100 -> 68 deg F in the direction of yellow, in my experience, so you may need some additional yellow, about 10Y.
Interesting stuff. Thanks All.
I'm afraid I've let the thread go silent, but with moderately good reason - I rented the rather excellent Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L over the weekend, and I've been burning film and silicon (naughty, naughty) with it
When I get paid, I think I will have a go at colour printing.
PE (or anyone else), please could you tell me exactly which Kodak individual chemicals I will need? - I can't make head or tail of the cryptic product names without descriptions on Calumet's site. Thanks
Lens caps and cable releases can become invisible at will. :D