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  1. #41
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben-s View Post
    Scientific and accurately measured then

    How long do you prewet for? Is it the same 5 mins as used for film, or shorter?

    I use a 1 minute prewet on the Jobo drum processor, but for tray processing I don't.

    I measure to the square nanometer and to the 0.001 cc in volume. NAH, just dump and stir in some extra as you go along. After you have done it as long as I have, you develop a 'feel'. Its like swimming or riding a bike. Once you learn, you just don't forget!

    The kit I use is the RA-RT developer replenisher. It is not the 1 gallon kit.

    PE

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    I use a 1 minute prewet on the Jobo drum processor, but for tray processing I don't.

    I measure to the square nanometer and to the 0.001 cc in volume. NAH, just dump and stir in some extra as you go along. After you have done it as long as I have, you develop a 'feel'. Its like swimming or riding a bike. Once you learn, you just don't forget!

    The kit I use is the RA-RT developer replenisher. It is not the 1 gallon kit.

    PE
    Hmmm... I prefer the angstrom and yoctolitre personally. So much more accurate

    Thanks for your help!
    Lens caps and cable releases can become invisible at will. :D

  3. #43
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    So... let me get this straight... you can use the 35C/100F RA4 chemicals at "room temperature" 68F? It just takes longer with a yellow colour shift? Hmm...
    ~Heather
    oooh shiny!
    http://www.stargazy.org/

  4. #44
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    That is correct.

    I used about +10 to +20 Y correction and 2' development at 68F.

    PE

  5. #45
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    Do you do the bleach and fix for 2' at 68F as well?

  6. #46
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    For paper, I use the Kodak RA blix for 2' and then wash for 5' at 85 deg F. If at 68 deg F, I wash for about 10 - 20 mins. This gives optimum washing for image stability.

    Please see my other postings on this on APUG and PN for more details and a reversal cross process.

    PE

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