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  1. #21
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Here are 6 pictures exposed in camera at 1 stop intervals. I made prints at 12" with my standard filter pack. The only change was in f stop.

    From left to right it is Portra VC 160 at 25, 50, 100, 160, 200 and 400.

    Hope looking at the neutral scale helps.

    PE
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 25 for posting.jpg   50 for posting.jpg   100 for posting.jpg   160 for posting.jpg   200 for posting.jpg  

    400 for posting.jpg  
    Last edited by Photo Engineer; 09-17-2007 at 04:55 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added film exposure information

  2. #22
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    BTW, the above are direct scans of the negative. I have the prints of these as well to post if anyone is interested.

    PE

  3. #23
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    The darkest image, the grey card definately looks red to me as compared to the grey card in the lightest image. yes/no?
    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Here are 6 pictures exposed at 12" with my standard filter pack. The only change was in f stop.

    From left to right it is Portra VC 160 at 25, 50, 100, 160, 200 and 400.

    Hope looking at the neutral scale helps.

    PE

  4. #24
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    If that were so, then the greens and cyans would have become desaturated. I can only say that it is darker.

    PE

  5. #25
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    Here are the scans of 8x10 proof sheets from the negatives above. Each name indicates the f stop change from 5.6 - 22.

    They were all exposed, as indicated above, at one standard filter pack and 12" exposure time.

    These are all from Portra VC 160 exposed from ISO 25 - 400 and therefore you will have to select the correct exposure of film to match the paper.

    The 160 exposure is at the top (left) of the scene.

    The first post shows the film response as scanned with no changes and this post shows the paper response to the film over the ISO range selected when printed at 1 stop intervals. There is no significant color shift. My conclusion is that one of the B&W dye based films should do as well or better. This is based on myriads of experiments like this.

    PE
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails f56.jpg   f8.jpg   f11.jpg   f16.jpg   f22.jpg  


  6. #26
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Ctein to the rescue...

    Accidentally, that is. He posted one of his first colour print on TOP the other day, and if you look at the dark building in the background:

    http://theonlinephotographer.typepad...9figure1_2.jpg

    That's the kind of error I meant. Guess I'll just have to watch my processing, no?
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

    My APUG Portfolio

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by mhv View Post
    So now that I can print RA-4 at home, I decided to use my BW400CN for what they were made for, namely RA-4 printing.

    I'm using Supra Endura in Kodak chems, processed in a Unicolor drum on a motor base. I use a stop bath between dev and blix.
    Whoa, horsey!

    You said the magic word, blix.

    I sure hope you mean using a bleach-fix mixture for the RA-4 paper developing, and .NOT. using blix for your C-41 developing. If you have silver retention in your negs, then that will cause all sorts of havoc...

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