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  1. #11
    cinejerk's Avatar
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    I think HQMS is difficult to find in any country, and expensive too !!

    I have had some decent results using straight HQ. You use a lot less than HQMS. Probably around 6g per liter.

    There are recipe's on this forum if you search.

  2. #12
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinejerk View Post
    There are recipe's on this forum if you search.
    I did not find the recipe on APUG, but here is a patent detailing the whole procedure for making HQMS.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  3. #13
    cinejerk's Avatar
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  4. #14

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    Small update...

    E6Homebrew update by request...

    Quite a long time ago I posted a formulation for a bunch of outdated Films. However, here is a VERY GOOD working formulation for normal pictorial use. I have great success with Ektachrome100D, the movie film stock of E100VS, but still no scanner do demonstrate it…
    A few notes in advance, my sequestering agent is still simple calgon, works perfect for me. In doubt I take aqua demin. for car accumulators. I do still use simple Phenidone A instead of Dimezone-S in the FD, works pretty perfect and is cheaper. Normally (the industrial way) the buffer capacy of the color developer is created by NaOH/KOH and phosphoric acid, I do replace them by the usage of the old fashioned Trisodiumphospate (dodecahydrate), NaOH sol.10% is used for pH correction only.
    Needed / helpful Stuff: An accurate scale, pH meter, magnetic stirrer, some personal protection (goggles, gloves) some experience in homebrewing and some time…

    First Developer:
    Tab Water 750ml
    Calgon 2g
    Sodium-Sulfite 22,7g
    Potash 14g
    Sodium-Bikarbonate 12g
    NaOH Sol. 10% 30ml
    KBR 2,6g
    Potassium Jodide 5mg (!) / 5ml of a 0.1%sol.
    Potassium Thiocyanate 1g
    Phenidon A 1g (solve it in 15 ml warm Diglycol/antifreeze)
    Potassium-Hydroquinonemonosulfonate 22g

    Fill up to 1Liter, pH 9,64 at 25°C
    (the formulation is intended to reach this pH if your scale is accurate)


    Color Developer:
    Aqua demin 750ml
    Calgon 2g
    Trisodiumphospate (dodecahydrate) 36g
    Sodium-Sulfite 4,5 g
    NaOH Sol. 10% 35ml (this depends a bit on your preferences, maybe start with 28ml)
    KBR 0,75g
    Potassium Jodide 30mg (!)
    Ethylendiamine (free base) 3ml
    Citrazinic acid 1g
    CD3 10,5g

    Fill up to 1Liter, pH with 28 ml NaOH sol.10% is 11,96.

    Anyway I do prefere a slightly higher pH, close over 12 with my Films and procedures, that’s why I take 35ml. “Formaly correct“ is a pH of 11.95 whith you reach with 28ml NaOH sol.10% in this formulation (if your scale is correct).


    Stop 1
    Citric acid 20g/Litre

    Stop-Clear
    Citric acid 20g
    Sodiumbisulfite 20g

    Bleach
    A good preoxigenated C41 minilab bleach with prolonged time or a Homebrew bleach based on ferricyanide. Look out for E4 Bleach formulation

    Fix, any neutral fix will work, I use a 2 stage fixation



    Proceeding: Jacketbath temperature 38,4°C. Rotation „P“ at Jobo CPP2

    3 x 30 sec. tempered prewash
    6 min FD
    2 min wash
    2 min Stop 1
    2 min wash
    ---------------
    Reversal exposure
    Film stays on translucent (!) reel, reels are transferred in the sink, covered by water. Reversal exposure with 1000W flood light, hold it and move it approx one feet over the reels. Do move the reels too. 2min from each side.
    Do not splash around, take some care about the electric safety in your lab (IN ADVANCE!!)
    -----------
    Put the reels back in the drum and for tempering them again
    3x 30sec. Prewash
    5 min Color development
    30 sec wash
    2 min Stop-clear
    2 min wash
    10 min. bleach with preoxigenated C41 bleach, or 5 min. with Ferricyanide bleach
    2-3 min wash
    4 min Fix1
    4 min Fix 2
    10 min Final wash
    -----------

    1 min Stabi, with formaldehyde


    „Milage“ at least 10 Films for a liter.
    I do the first 6 Films in a Multitank 6 with 6:00 min FD time, using the whole liter. The following 4-5 Films in a second run for 6:15 min. Prior second use add 2 ml NaOH sol. 10% to the color developer to maintain pH. Partly used solutions keep for about 5 days, this is not very different from commercial stuff.

    In spite of all you may need minor fine-tuning, simply because of weighting tolerances or slightly different workflow. So maybe you have to adopt the FD time in fractions or add a few ml NaOH / diluted sulfuric acid to get the color balance you desire. If doing so you will be surprised pleasantly.

    Regards Stefan
    Last edited by stefan4u; 05-19-2013 at 12:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #15

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    Alternative “ZoneV” FD

    Just for the records, an alternative FD based on the “ZoneV” formulation which ceased some time ago.

    Tab water 750ml
    Calgon 2g
    Sodium-Sulfite 1g
    Metol 2,5g
    Sodium-Sulfite 21g
    Potash 14g
    Sodiumbicarbornate 12g
    Hydroquinone 6g
    Phenidon A 0,5g (solve in 15 ml warm Glycol)
    Potassiumthiocyanate 1g
    KBR 2g
    Potassium-Jodide 10mg
    NaOH Sol. 10%ig 20ml
    Benzoetriazole 100mg

    Fill up to 1000ml pH 9,65 at 25°C

    This is for people who want to play around a bit with the E6 Homebrew Formulation, but do not have access to Hydroquinonemonosulfonate. I have to say clearly that the “real” HQMS formulation is better in meaning of contrast and correct color reproduction. But this one is not as bad, I`ve tested it too. A minor color crossover is visible, (very)slight green in the lower densities versus (very) slight magenta in the higher densities. The mid densities are neutral. The slides increase a pitch in contrast. But all in all this one works quite well together with my CD of the last posting…

    Similar things I`ve noticed some time ago when adding Benzoetriazole to a FD based on HQMS, I would advise you to skip the benzoetriazole and increase the KBR to about 3 grams instead, to get rid /to minimize this color crossover, but it may not correctable completely.The latter is not tested jet, in opposite to my other formulations. Simply still have enough HQMS…

    Unluckily a color crossover caused by uneven development thought the various emulsion layers can not be compensated by pH variations in the following CD.

    Developers containing plain HQ are not very stable, under the presence of sulfite and oxygen in alkaline solution, HQ starts to convert to less active HQMS and changes the pH. If you want to have a constant result, brew it and use it within a constant time interval.


    Regards stefan

  6. #16

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    Mmmm, I reactivated an old flatbed scanner on that win98 machine, this thing is so old, not even xp drivers are available… Internal light source is disconnected and a small light box shines through the slides.
    Please keep in mind that the scanner quality is really bad, but you may get an idea…

    Fist an Overview of various grey step wedges, the first 3 are HQMS based FD
    Row 3 is my actual FD of posting No.14
    Row 4 and 5 are modifications of the ZoneV FD
    Row 6 is a test brew, converting HQ to HQMS, Wheatcroft patent (have to work that over some day…)
    Row 7 again HQMS,

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Grey steps actual brew
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Crop of few pictures
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Grey steps ZoneV
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Grey steps converting HQ to HQMS
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Once again, the scans are only a hint; the slides of my actual homebrew are delightful !

    Regards stefan
    Last edited by stefan4u; 05-21-2013 at 12:10 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17
    kb3lms's Avatar
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    Not too bad! Looks good. The problem of getting HQMS is what has always slowed me down with trying this myself.

    Check out VueScan for your scanner. It just might support your old scanner. An XP driver would not necessarily be required.

    http://hamrick.com/
    All this has happened before, and all this will happen again.

  8. #18

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    what is the formula of bleach you use? thanks!!

  9. #19
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bralors View Post
    what is the formula of bleach you use? thanks!!
    From Stefan's posting on this very page:
    Quote Originally Posted by stefan4u View Post
    Bleach
    A good preoxigenated C41 minilab bleach with prolonged time or a Homebrew bleach based on ferricyanide. Look out for E4 Bleach formulation

    Fix, any neutral fix will work, I use a 2 stage fixation
    Note that E6 is not rated for C-41 and Ferricyanide bleach, but many seem to get good results. Fuji listed their E6 formulas in a patent, which is described here. You may not be able to get the 1-Thioglycerol for the prebleach, but you can replace it with Mercaptotriazole.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

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