|
|
|
-
HQ and sodium or potassium sulfite will make what you want with the addition of the right amount of oxidant. You should read up on the synthesis in a good text though. I don't have the information here.
As I noted earlier, Kyanted has special ordered a number of chemicals for me, as has the Formulary. You just need to ask. Kyantec does not list Erythrosine, but I buy it there. They special order it for me.
PE
-
 Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
HQ and sodium or potassium sulfite will make what you want with the addition of the right amount of oxidant. You should read up on the synthesis in a good text though. I don't have the information here.
As I noted earlier, Kyanted has special ordered a number of chemicals for me, as has the Formulary. You just need to ask. Kyantec does not list Erythrosine, but I buy it there. They special order it for me.
PE
Hi PE,
I spoke with a representative Kyantec earlier on today and they're looking into finding this chemical for me. BTW, do you know of any good texts on the above synthesis? I've had no luck on the internet. Thanks again for your help.
"The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."
-
Weissberger "Organic Synthesis" or the Merck index may give references. College libraries will carry references to articles. It isn't hard to find. Nor is it hard to make. Every developer contains some.....
The only thing you have to watch for is the solution turning green. In this case you are forming quinhydrone which is no good. It used to be used to make green ink.
PE
-
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
Weissberger "Organic Synthesis" or the Merck index may give references. College libraries will carry references to articles. It isn't hard to find. Nor is it hard to make. Every developer contains some.....
The only thing you have to watch for is the solution turning green. In this case you are forming quinhydrone which is no good. It used to be used to make green ink.
PE
Thanks for information PE. Either way, I win. I either get the photo chemistry I want or green ink to use in my fountain pen. 
"The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."
-
May I ask what you are trying to do?
PE
-
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
-
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
May I ask what you are trying to do?
PE
Certainly, PE. I should have brought it up in the beginning of the thread. It was my intention to experiment with a DIY E-6 formula. I understand that hydroquinone monosulphate is what should be used in the first developer but I currently have only hydroquinone. I also understand that home brew E-6 formulations are not accurate. Consequently, I run the risk of long term image stability, loss of image quality and grain.
The formula that I'm using is as follows:
FIRST DEVELOPER
Distilled Water...............................750ml
Sodium Sulphite, (anhy)..................28.0g
Potassium Carbonate, (anhy)...........14.0g
Sodium Bicarbonate........................12.0g
Phenidone.....................................0.5g
Hydroquinone Monosulfate................6.0g
Sodium Bromide..............................2.6g
Sodium Thiocyanate........................1.0 g
Sodium Hydroxide............................2.5g
Potassium Iodide, 0.1% solution.........4.5ml
Distilled water to make.....................1,000ml
STOP BATH 1
Water...........................................75 0ml
Sodium Acetate, (anhy)...................30.0g
Acetic acid, (glacial).......................6.0ml
Water to make...............................1,000ml
COLOUR DEVELOPER
Distilled water................................750ml
Trisodium Phosphate, crystals...........36.0g
Sodium Hydroxide...........................1.9g
Sodium Sulphite, (anhy)...................5.5g
Sodium Bromide..............................0.55g
Potassium Iodide, 0.1% solution........37.5ml
Sodium Thiocyanate........................1.0g
Citrazinic Acid.................................0.6g
Kodak CD-3....................................10.5g
Distilled water to make.....................1,000ml
STOP BATH 2
Water...........................................75 0ml
Sodium Acetate, (anhy)...................30.0g
Acetic acid, (glacial).......................6.0ml
Water to make...............................1,000ml
BLEACH
Water...........................................75 0ml
Potassium Ferricyanide.....................80.0g
Potassium Bromide...........................20.0g
Disodium Phosphate, (anhy)..............12.0g
Acetic Acid, (glacial)........................5.0ml
Water to make................................1,000ml
FIXER
Water............................................7 50ml
Sodium Thiosulphate, (crystals)..........200.0g
Sodium Sulphite, (anhy)....................5.0g
Sodium Metabisulphite.......................0.5g
Water to make.................................1,000ml
STABILIZER (OPTIONAL)
Water............................................7 50ml
Formaldehyde, 40%..........................5.0ml
Wetting Agent.................................1.0ml
Water to make................................1,000ml
This formula was posted by a APUGer not too long ago and is a variant of the Watkins formulation. I thought I would play around with it and see what results I would get. The Canadian winter is coming and I need some indoor stuff to occupy my time with. Once again, thank you for all the help that you provided.
Last edited by Snapshot; 11-13-2007 at 09:08 PM. Click to view previous post history.
"The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."
-
I suspected as much.
Good formula, but DTOD is a bit better than thiocyanate. If you can get it that is.
Also, the stop before the bleach (ferricyanide) better have sulfite or you may get a high dmin. The sulfite scavenges color developer before bleaching.
PE
-
I presume DTOD is Dithethyloctane Diol? I couldn't find any around but I'll look around. What would be an appropriate amount of DTOD? As for the fix before the bleach, would 10g/l of sodium sulfite be sufficient? Thanks again.
"The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."
-
Kodak has published on its web site, several formulas with DTOD instead of thiocyanate. The VNF process is one that comes to mind (IIRC). I would say 1 g is enough.
As for the sulfite, about 10 g/l should work. It reacts with excess CD3 to form the sulfonate (ahahahahaha) to prevent stain from forming.
Sulfite is everywhere in photography. Like cow patties in a pasture, right?
PE
-
This is great help. Once again, I owe you a debt of gratitude. Now, if only I can get that sulfonate from stop bath and bleach mixture.
"The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."
|
|
Adv Reply
