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  1. #11
    George Papantoniou's Avatar
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    Quite a while ago a made a small reciprocity characteristics test with Kodak, Agfa and Fuji slide films. The Provia 100F proved even better than slow Tungsten films, who were supposed to react well in long exposure times...

  2. #12
    Andy K's Avatar
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    Look for the book Night Photography by Andrew Sanderson. Published by Argentum ISBN 1 902538 12 9. Has all the information you could want.

    My Flickr night photography album.


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    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  3. #13

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    In general modern film designs have better reciprocity characteristics than do older designs. In practice they can be lots better. For color negative films, both Kodak's 160PortraXX film and Fujifilm's 160S/C have very good reciprocity characteristics. That is, they don't need much exposure compensation, nor do they color shift much. Certainly when compared to older films of the same type.

    For B&W, Fujifilm's Acros does very well, as does Kodak's 100Tmax. The 400Tmax also does very well. I'll agree with a previous poster; in low light conditions 100Tmax is actually a considerably faster film than 320Tri-X.

  4. #14
    IloveTLRs's Avatar
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    I didn't think it was possible to over-expose night shots, but I got results I didn't like with Fujifilm Presto 400 a few months back. In my Rolleiflex, f8 to f11 for about 20 ~ 30 seconds (1-Mississippi, 2-Mississippi, etc.)
    Those who know, shoot film

  5. #15
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    You can overexpose night shots- depends on the look you're going for. The other issue with reciprocity is the need to compensate in the development for the highlight blowout. The relative brightness scale of things like streetlights compared to the ambient night means that the streetlamps will expose normally, while the rest of the scene will require additional exposure to yield acceptable density. So the highlights will be blown out. That's where overexposure comes in. So you need to cut development by 10-15% per stop of reciprocity compensation so your highlights stay in control. Less of an issue with color than black-and-white to some degree, as color neg film has even greater latitude, and although color balance will go out-of-whack, that's going to happen with night stuff anyway because of the mixed lighting (sodium vapor, incandescent, and fluorescent).

  6. #16
    Andy K's Avatar
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    For bw under streetlights (sodium) I use HP5+, a high aperture of f16 - 22, expose for a count of 90, then I stand develop which stops the highlights blowing out because the developer exhausts on those parts of the negative.

    Example
    Last edited by Andy K; 12-11-2007 at 07:36 AM. Click to view previous post history.


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    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  7. #17

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    Provia 400 and Kodak E-200 are the astrophotographer's films of choice these days. BOth work quite well. In sheet film try provia 100. I haven't shot any at night yet but from what I can tell it should work.

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