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  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    C41 fix and final rinse can be used with E6 and vice versa. Same with the bleaches. Times may need to be tweaked for optimum performance with the bleach and fix, but you can always redo these steps and the washes and final rinses with no harm at all to C41 or E6 films, so it is easy to 'play'.

    The color of fresh mixed color developer and first developers are not that important. It is just that the final mix of the color developer must be less than strong tea colored, or the concentrate of the part B (IIRC) the one that contains the concentrated color developer before mixing should be clear or pale yellow. The first developer should be clear or pale yellow before and after mixing. Solids in the first developer must be dissolved by warming.

    PE

  2. #12

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    As an aside how long does Color Developer concentrate last when still in Part A and Part B forms? Should I bother rebottling Part A of the Color Developer to prevent oxidation or is it fairly stable?

  3. #13
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    Once you open a bottle of concentrate for any reason, it begins to go bad at an accelerated rate. Then, all bets are off.

    PE

  4. #14
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    Steve just sent me a PM. He asked a very valid question about the ordering of the chemicals going bad that I posted earlier.

    I have to explain that the reversal bath and the first developer are rather tied as to which I would place first. It depends. I guess I placed the reversal bath after the first developer because I think of the many people (myself included) who use reversal exposure and it just sort of skipped my mind.

    Another thing is the fact that the first developer can be sort of tested, by dipping in a piece of leader into fresh stuff and doing a test every day timing the blackening rate (I would use some B&W film as it can be observed better). There is no test for the quality of the reversal bath, and so it should be replaced regularly. You have no other assurance than replacement.

    Thanks Steve for the reminder. I hope that this is more clear.

    PE

  5. #15
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    P.E have you heard of the white rubbery stuff that can form in the reversal? what is that? one person I used to know joked hmm if reversal does that "ITS ALIVE"!!!!. But he had the persona of a mad scientist. um maybe I should see if i can make some of this stuff in a container of stagnant reversal waste.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Frizza View Post
    P.E have you heard of the white rubbery stuff that can form in the reversal? what is that? one person I used to know joked hmm if reversal does that "ITS ALIVE"!!!!. But he had the persona of a mad scientist. um maybe I should see if i can make some of this stuff in a container of stagnant reversal waste.
    Steve;

    IDK what that is, but the reversal bath contains an organic acid and stannous chloride. The tin salt is the active ingredient which fogs film, but it is also oxidized by air.

    IIRC, there is also a buffer in the solution.

    Sorry, but I don't know more than this.

    PE

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Frizza View Post
    P.E have you heard of the white rubbery stuff that can form in the reversal? what is that? one person I used to know joked hmm if reversal does that "ITS ALIVE"!!!!. But he had the persona of a mad scientist. um maybe I should see if i can make some of this stuff in a container of stagnant reversal waste.
    I think if the white rubbery stuff you are finding is like what grows in my reversal bath deep tank, it is a kind of mold. It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the reversal bath, though.

  8. #18
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    ive never seen it but im glad you have because ive been curious as to weather or not its real hehehehe.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Once you open a bottle of concentrate for any reason, it begins to go bad at an accelerated rate. Then, all bets are off.

    PE
    How long will the concentrates last after one has opened the bottles?

    Kodak gives suggested/recommended max storage times for mixed solutions, but not for the concentrates. I've been researching the net this afternoon and this question has been asked for years and appears on other forums. But no good answers.

    Now seriously, what has been people's experience?

    I understand that once a bottle is opened, things start to happen. But, if a mixed solution is good for X weeks in a full bottle and Y weeks in a partly full bottle, there must be some practical ballpark figure for the concentrates.

  10. #20
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    Nope, no ballpark. They eyeball is the best measure of this for color developer and fix. The solutions begin to discolor rather rapidly and once the color developer concentrate goes beyond the color of tea to look like coffee it is done for. The reversal bath shows no change, it just stops working, and the same may be true of the first developer. The fix begins to get yellow particles precipitate out.

    PE

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