Ilfochrome developer

[Lopaka]

I have a kit that's been partially used, sitting on the shelf for a while and the developer died. The bleach and fix are still good. Since the dev is basically a B&W dev, are there any print developers that give good results? I know there has been some formula info posted here, but I've never really been a mix it from scratch kind. In order to salvage the remainder of the kit, I would like to find developers that give good results. Any one with experience using existing B&W dev, and what adjustments, if any are needed?

Bob

[Photo Engineer]

With no guarantees, you might try Dektol (D-72) at about 1:3 for starters.

PE

[boyooso]

It is my understanding that the ilfochrome developer has a tad bit of fixer in it to help with the masking.

Corey

[Photo Engineer]

Well, it would actually be a bit of a sliver halide solvent such as Potassium Thiocyanate.

Also, it might contain some of the dye bleach catalyst, in which case you may need to add about 10 mg/l of a Phenazine derivative to the developer. If you need help, I have patents and data here.

PE

[AgX]

The data sheet of the P-5! process speaks of Hydroquinone and Phenidone in the developer bath and the catalyst in the bleach bath.

What would be the idea to add some catalyst to the first stage?

[Photo Engineer]

The idea would be to have the catalyst evenly distributed. Some patents claim that it is used in the bleach, some in the developer and some claim it is used in the coatings. So, I cannot be sure.

I discussed this several years ago with the head of the Swiss R&D effort and he was, as you would expect, quite evasive.

PE

[Wayne]

I have more experience mixing Ilfochrome developers than I care to remember. You need to use a developer with hydroquinone. Any normal print developer with HQ should work. The (many years) old emulsion didnt require the HQ but that changed sometime in the 90's. You dont need any catalyst in the developer. I would just use whatever is handy-if you have some Ilford (or Dektol, or whatever) developer toss in the hypo and go.

Second, you need hypo in there. When I mixed my own developer I used about 1/4 teaspoon per liter IIRC. The amount is not critical (again IIRC) but it has to be there. I have 30 pounds in the garage, if you just need a dollop or two let me know.


Wayne

[Photo Engineer]

If you overdo the hypo, I would guess some bad things can happen to the image, so I would 'work up' to the 'right' level. Just a thought.

Too much solvent can hurt the image.

PE

[boyooso]

Am I wrong to assume when you say 'hypo' you mean sodium thiosulfate (fixer)?

Corey

[Wayne]

I mean sodium thiosulfate (the 1/4 t is for crystal), but I don't mean fixer. Fixer (usually) has other things in it too (and sometimes doesn't have sodium thiosulfate at all)