RA4 Reversal printing - results
I've been experimenting with RA4 reversal printing and I thought I'd share the results that I've had so far.
The process I've been using is as follows
- Black and white develop in Dektol 1:3 - 3 minutes
- Stop - 30s
- Wash and expose - 2 min
- Normal RA4 process
The results have been mixed - my first attempt (first attachment) was on Kodak Edge paper from a Provia transparency (second attachment). Note the contrast increase and mottle in the sky and water. Exposure was 12s @ f11, 90/25/0 Y/M/C on a Durst CLS300 (note that Durst filter values are different from Kodak CC values).
Next I tried Kodak Endura Supra. Based on the experiences of others I expected this to work the best. Unfortunately it worked the worst of the three papers I have tried and simply wouldn't produce a good white (third attachment.) The transparency this was printed off is the fifth attachment. Exposure was 8s @f11, 85/5/0 Y/M/C.
Finally I tried Fuji Crystal Archive. There have been mixed reports on the results using this paper but for me it was hands down the best result (fourth attachment.) No visible mottle and not too much contrast. Exposure 10s @f16, 50/5/0.
I'd like to thank Photo Engineer for his previous posts on this subject and Stephen Frizza for letting me use his darkroom.
I hope this has been interesting and informative for you all!
Last edited by David Grenet; 02-10-2008 at 10:35 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: Forgot to include exposure values
I have posted many items about this including the process and examples. Many have done this. Endura works most repeatably for me, but the CA varies a lot from reports I have had.
You have given no temperatures for the process. I use 68 F and the RA-RT developer replenisher. It is so touchy that many things like that will give different results from different papers.
That is exactly why I was so surprised. I have all your posts on this subject that I could find (both here and on photo.net) bookmarked. The initial dev/stop/wash was done at room temp in trays; it then went through a roller transport machine (at 95F?)
I should note that the Endura I have is a little old (not as old as the Edge) although it still gives good whites in normal neg-pos printing. The CA was fairly fresh.
Last edited by David Grenet; 02-10-2008 at 09:42 PM. Click to view previous post history.
It looks that #3 is about 1 stop under exposed.
I have a 16x20 hanging on the livingroom wall using just about that process. I use Dektol as well.
I have dozens of sample pictures from people sent to me from all over the world using this method, and although it works, you need to select the transparency carefully due to contrast. In addtion, all reports say that CAII and Supra III and II will not work as well as Endura, but then all paper formulas change. I used Portra.
Thanks for the reply.
In addition to the images posted, I tried to print some contact sheets. I settled in the exposure I did because at one stop over I was losing detail. However, now that you mention it, the one stop over proof sheet has a lighter background tone (around the film) suggesting I need to try more exposure (and perhaps find a transparency that will cope with it better!)
I will keep trying with the Endura and report back (probably won't be able to do any more for about a week).
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Those look superb, especially the last two! I had never considered this was possible, never even thought about it!
Okay, I have looked but I can't find the other posts you said are out there. Can you or anyone point me in the direction of some detailed instructions on how this is done. Thanks. They look promising.
Bujor B. posted a whole raft of pictures taken in 8x10 or with a pinhole camera. There are a half dozen more on Photo net and several here.
Like the others I am fascinated by this. I have several dozen transparencies but gave up shooting more because of the expense of the Ilfochrome process for making prints using this processand that I suspect will turn out no better than RA4 neg prints. However I would like to have a go with these transparencies now I know that it is possible, otherwise theey are destined to remain simply transparencies to be viewed occasionally on a very small viewer.
PE. I have never seen any articles on the process. Would you be prepared to give us the benefit of your skills and knowledge here with an article or maybe a thread or as Derek has mentioned a pointer towards an article. I have looked at a number of colour processing books, have seen nothing about it and like Matt never even realised that it was possible.
Well, for those looking for more information there is a discussion here which includes a pdf summary of the process towards the end.
There is also this post on photo.net which includes some of the samples by Bujor about his 'in camera' technique.