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  1. #11

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    Dear Bill !!

    Thank's for answering, I will keep your formulation in mind...
    It is a bit surprising that this "slim" developer works, but if it does, so much the better

    Regards from Germany,
    Stefan

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by epatsellis View Post
    It depends, shooting a lot of 4x5 in a weekend, I can exhaust a gallon of bleach in one darkroom (kitchen, really) session.
    Yikes. I'm used to the Fuji-Hunt low replenishment bleach. My poor memory tells me 5ml replenishment for one roll of film area. For 3.79 litres of bleach that's a lot of rolls.

  3. #13

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    Here are links to a couple of scans of the Fuji Superia 200 negatives developed with this developer. Although the shots are just a couple of grab shots as I drove home from work, they will give you an idea of the ability of the developer.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1511331...43953/sizes/l/


    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1511331...44217/sizes/l/

  4. #14

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    Dear Bill !!

    Maybe it's just in my eyes, but the colors seems to be a bit off. Looks disturbed somehow, like Yellow and and Magenta layers are a bit out of control...

    But if you say that your prints are all right, it's maybe just a problem of scanning and viewing on uncalibrated monitors (like mine...)

    Regards,
    Stefan

  5. #15

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    Stefan, I'd tend to agree, though it's not too bad, and could be the scans as well. The average person would never notice. While I prefer using Kodak's chemistry for most of my work, I'm considering playing with the Dignan formula when I travel, though I need to do some serious testing. Here's a few quick shots I took last week with the RB and the 360mm lens, processed in the kitchen sink, no tweaking saturation or the like, just simple level adjusting and no sharpening, I'm really starting to like this new Portra 160VC:




  6. #16

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    Nice shot's really !!

    The "dignan" formular does it's job quite well with forgiving low saturated portrait films. Unadjusted I had good results with Agfa Portrait 160 (RIP), but quite harsh prints with consumer stuff. Watch out for the ph, it HAS TO BE adjusted to ~10.05 with sulphuric acid. If you take the formular without corrections, ph will be too causic at about ~10.50, depending on your water supply. Further I suspect that there is too much sulfite and bromide in, the Densitiometer's reading for red are a bit low...

    Regards,
    Stefan
    Last edited by stefan4u; 05-23-2008 at 12:34 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17

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    Stefan,

    I really don't disagree that the results are not dead on as they would be with C41. The negatives do print very well, and the process gives very repeatable results. For that reason, I posted what I'd found. I thought perhaps that anyone that had experimented with Dignan's formula might find that this worked better for them, as it can be tailored to each film type and easily altered for contrast. I would think that it would be quite suitable for XP2. And I plan to continue to tinker with it in hopes of finding exactly the right amount of bromide and iodide to make it more acceptable. I wouldn't for a moment suggest that it matches or exceeds the quality and results from C41.

    By the way, when I worked with Dignan's formula, I found that doubling the carbonate and the CD4 helped a lot, and I also found that Kodak films liked some potassium bromide and not potassium iodide, and the other way around for Fuji. Had some success, but not enough to continue fooling with it. I liked the one shot small chemistry approach better.

  8. #18

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    Dear Bill !!

    Hope you didn't misunderstood me, never crossed my mind to criticize you!! There is just a keen interest in homebrewing, the differents formulars and their 'output'. Sadly I'm in an horrible lack of time, next batch and test runs are possible in about 3 weeks...
    * Interesting, your observation that fuji films tend to like more jodide in the developer. It seems to make sense if you compare the Fuji formulations against some kodak formulations (found in various patents). The fuji "standard" seems to be 1.5 mg/L against 1.2mg/L for kodak (if the numbers where not modified with intent...)

    Regards from Germany,
    Stefan

  9. #19

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    Stefan,

    I didn't take it as such. And I feel any comments pointing out either negative or positive attributes will help me to do better. I do not have the background in chemistry that either you or PE are fortunate to have, my field is electronics. And I do not have at my disposal even a densitometer, just an EM10, and some old 'True Balance Set UP Negatives' to compare with as well as some negatives I've done at home with Kodak's C41 chemicals and many from the one hour labs. The very best negatives I have were all done at home in the Kodak chemicals. The worst, from the one hour labs. I looked at the strip of negatives that the two images I posted came from, and compared the mask with a recent one I developed in C41, and I do believe that the mask is a bit towards the yellow, maybe about 5cc yellow. So I will make a correction. I appreciate any comments or discussion that will help guide me!

    Thanks!

  10. #20

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    Hi, can you tell me where i can find cd3 and cd4 kodak developing agents? Thanks

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