I start ilfochrome a year ago (which only represent 2 Kits of P3.2) and went through all types of troubles: Bath contaminating, bath to cold, paper out of date, magenta cast and finally lack of contrast and saturation using a new kit of chemistry with a new box of paper (Pearl out of date since 2005 but kept in fridge).
For this last problem I follow the advice of Dave travis about the subject (Here and increase the proportion of H2O in Developer and Bleach as well as I push up the time in the bleach.
Finally I came up with an almost descent print...
But now that I am in the good tracks I was wondering two thinks:
-Does contrast mask enhance color saturation?
-Does the method "to bleach, but not fix a print, then redevelop, bleach, redevelop and bleach until you achieve the color saturation / contrast - that you want", is an Ilfochrome method?
(By the way, to control this last method one will have to look the print in daylight, is that a problem?)
Thanks in advance,
Originally Posted by Inclanfunk
Try to keep all steps the same time/temp.
I use 2 minutes at 96F and get consistent results.
Contrast masking will help control too much contrast, but that's probably not an issue with yours.
It doesn't change the actual color saturation.
Re-doing some steps sounds like a lot of over-kill...and too much time in the wet can cause resin/paper separation along the edges.
Using the older papers with the new kits I reduce the dev and blx 30%.
If you can try the newer CPS1K, that won't be necessary.
Glad you're having some success.
It's a lot to learn, but I know you'll enjoy the results.
That is true.
I was about to give up until I apply your dilution. I cut a 50 percent the Dev and Bleach, I will try your 30%. For the rest I realize that increasing the time in bleach by 50% just push up a bit the general contrast.
Anyway the result is the closest to the original image I ever get.
Maybe Pearl paper is not as rich as the glossy one in color saturation and I just reach the limit.
For the re-dev, re-bleach, it's an advice I read from Photo Engineer who has been a great help for my successive troubles with this technique.
A few more questions:
Does any fix make it? I have tetenal for B/W, could it work? Because I will have more Dev and Bleach than Fix.
I personally have never substituted another fix, but others here have said that it would work.
I guess the fixing times might be different.
BTW, since I use the newer paper also, I've been mixing full strength, doing some printing, then diluting that dev & blx and printing the older stock.
It works fine and lets me not waste any leftover.
CPS1K is pricey though.
Long live Ciba!
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FWIW, here is an answer I got from a former USA Ilfochrome technician - you can use any B&W fixer and it will work - but cannot guarantee the quality. The fix is not expensive anyway, it is the proprietary bleach that is expensive.
"I always take a camera, That way I never have to say 'Gee, look at that - I wish I had a camera'" -Joe Clark, H.B.S.S.
Like Dave Travis i allso like my chems warmer than the norm.
Reading into this book the Complete Guide to Cibachrome printing
by H. Shull & P. Krause states that Std temp of 75 F @ 3 minutes . or
84f @ 2 minutes
Myself im processing at a higher temp at 82F @ 3 min with good results.
Im sure to keep it the same, allways for consistant results..
The book allso states that the color balance shifts toward red as the temps
increases and development time is reduced..You can adjust the
enlargers filter pack +5 cyan or so for the higher temps..
If you experience a shift to the magenta, add some cyan to compensate.
But increase exposure accordingly.